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AAC Announces 2021 Cutting Edge Grant Winners

Photo credits: Kurt Ross of Jess Roskelley on Baba Hussein, 2018 Cutting Edge Grant Recipient

Photo credits: Kurt Ross of Jess Roskelley on Baba Hussein, 2018 Cutting Edge Grant Recipient

The American Alpine Club and Black Diamond are pleased to announce the 2021 Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100-year tradition and seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2021 grant cycle, Black Diamond is a proud sponsor and partner in supporting cutting-edge alpinism. $25,000 has been awarded to six recipients.

Ryan Driscoll will receive a grant to attempt the North Face (aka The Medusa Face) of Mount Neacola in Lake Clark National Park, Alaska.

Nick Aiello-Popeo will receive a grant to attempt the unclimbed 6,000-vertical-foot West Face of Ganesh I (7,422 meters/24,350 feet; also called Yangra). This Himalayan giant is the highest peak in the Ganesh Himal in eastern Nepal, on the Tibetan border. The mountain has only seen one recoded ascent, from the north in 1955. Himalayan historian Damien Gildea described the objective as “one of the biggest unclimbed faces in the Himalaya.”

Matthew Cornell will receive a grant to attempt the West Face of the North Horseman, and the West Face of Pyramid Peak in Alaska's Revelation Mountains.

Vitaliy Musiyenko will receive a grant to attempt new routes on the North Face of Melanphulan (6,573 M) and the South Face of Nuptse in the Khumbu Region. Musiyenko had previously been awarded the Cutting Edge Grant in 2020, but the expedition was postponed due to COVID-19 travel restrictions.

And lastly, Sam Hennessey will receive a grant to attempt the East Face of Jannu East.

The Cutting Edge Grant is sponsored by Black Diamond, who’s equipment has helped climbers and alpinist to reach their summits for decades. Black Diamond is an integral partner in supporting climbers of all abilities and disciplines, with a long history of supporting climbers and their dreams through grants like the Cutting Edge Grant. Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1st through November 30th.

For more information, visit americanalpineclub.org/cutting-edge-grant

For more information on Black Diamond, visit blackdiamondequipment.com

Partner In Adventure Grant Recipients Announced

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What is the Partner in Adventure Grant?

The Partner in Adventure Grant, created in collaboration with TINCUP Whiskey, funds educational opportunities from local guide services for you and your partner to take your pursuit to the next level. Open to duos of all experience levels, the grant will award partners up to $1,000 for the educational opportunity of your choice.

2020 TINCUP Partner in Adventure Grant Recipients

The American Alpine Club and TINCUP Whiskey are pleased to announce the winners of the 2020 TINCUP Partner in Adventure Grant. In total, $20,000 was awarded to 20 partners in adventure.

A partner in adventure is there with you as you dream up the next big pursuit. They encourage you to push beyond your comfort zone and motivate you to explore the world in ways that are meaningful to you. They galvanize you to take on new challenges, grow your skills, and imagine new adventures, by their side.

Congratulations to the 2020 grant winners, and cheers to the many adventures that await them.

  • Madeline & Katie – AK | NOLS Wilderness Emergency Medical Technician 

  • Kit & Emma – AK | Avalanche Professional 1 Course

  • Angela & Emily – NY | Multi-Pitch Climbing

  • Mick & Kaiwen - WA | AIARE Level I Avalanche Course & Mt. Baker guided climb

  • Daniel & Jessie – OH | Introduction to Mountaineering - Mt. Washington, 3-day guided climb

  • Geoffrey & Dave - MA | Introduction to Mountaineering - Mt. Rainier, 4-day guided climb

  • Alex & Jason – ID | AIARE Level I Avalanche Course

  • Marissa & Mary – AK | AIARE Level I Avalanche Course

  • Shauna & Idaliza – AZ | Introduction to Mountaineering – North Cascades guided climb

  • James & Patrick – OR | AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course

  • Lucas & Manny – CO | AIARE Level I Avalanche Course

  • Christopher & Andrew – MD | Accelerated Mountaineering Course

  • Jamie & Sam – WA | Ski Mountaineering Course – Mt. Baker, 3-day guided course

  • Andrew & Melissa – TN | Gym to Crag Course

  • Janelle & Luke – CO | AIARE Level I Avalanche Course

  • Jason & Jason – WA | Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Course

  • Laura & Andrea – IL | Anchors I, II & III Courses

  • Amanpreet & Soyna – CT | Rock Climbing Development Series, Level II Course

  • Adrien & Connor – OR | Guided Climb of Mt. Baker

  • Ellen & Lindsay – AK | Glacier Travel & Crevasse & 6-day Mountaineering Course

TINCUP Partner in Adventure Grant recipients Angela and Emily.

TINCUP Partner in Adventure Grant recipients Angela and Emily.

Emily and I have dreamed about traveling to my homeland, Vietnam to climb and share in the whole culture of the country my family is from. But in order to take a trip like this, we need to seriously step up our technical skills game.
— Angela

Live Your Dream Grant Applications Now Open

This is your climbing club | This is your climbing grant.

Application period: January 15th through February 28th

The Live Your Dream grant, powered by The North Face (TNF), was founded on the belief that our definitions of exploration and our goals are unique to each of us. Meaningful exploration isn’t limited to the highest peaks in the farthest reaches of the world. Your local gym, crag, and backyard mountains are equally important resources to help stoke inspiration for adventure. When we search out new experiences, overcome obstacles, and connect with each other, through exploration, we change ourselves.

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This grant supports the every-day adventurers who harness this mindset for their own exploration. We are looking for individuals who have a personally ambitious climbing goal, a desire to take their abilities to the next level, and want to share the power of exploration with their communities.

Open to all ages, all experience levels, and all climbing disciplines—from bouldering to big walls, alpinism to ski mountaineering, peak bagging to bolt clipping, and everything in between—we encourage you to dream big, let curiosity lead you, and apply.

POLICY UPDATES IN THE ERA OF COVID

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COVID19 is inundating the national news cycle—and it should be. During this global pandemic, people want the latest information about the virus and how to best protect themselves and those around them. It can be hard to consider attacks on the environment when many are working at the front lines of the epidemic, have lost jobs or income, or are experiencing the sudden responsibility of caring for family members.

While we adapt to this new “normal”, the government is still chugging along making decisions that affect our public lands and waters. 

Recently, we’ve witnessed some issues that gave us pause for concern. During a time of media overload, government officials are working without the same level of public scrutiny, and some appear to be exploiting this opportunity.

In a time of national crisis, the government should press pause on all non-essential activities, just like the rest of us. But over the past few weeks we’ve observed government officials loosening regulations on polluters, pushing anti-environmental rule makings without sufficient public engagement, making final decisions on land use plans, and even hosting lease sales of oil, gas, and coal on public lands.

Read the full article to find out about the issues to have on your radar.

Honest Thoughts About Therapy as a Climber

What is therapy? What is a therapist supposed to do? How do you find one? How do you know if you need one? How do you know if yours is any good? Societal stigma around mental health makes the answers to these questions difficult to find.

And yet, mental health is slowly making its way into the mainstream conversation in climbing communities. It’s coming up around death, loss, trauma, risk—all in some ways inherently tied to the particular experience of climbing. It’s also coming up around more insidious, silent struggles like body image, performance, depression, and anxiety. What’s not yet mainstream is how or when to engage in therapy, or conversations about what exactly therapy is.

I often talk with people about how to find a therapist, choose a therapist, or where to start with therapy. This list of thoughts is a summary of those conversations, with special thought given to climbers and the climbing community. I think the climbing community has an inherent advantage in addressing mental health, in that it is such a community.

I have, in no other domain of my life, walked up to a stranger and so easily become their friend. The stoke, the excitement, the welcoming energy is overwhelming. And yet, we still suffer. We suffer the same as anyone else, and in some ways, uniquely, as a result of risks we’re willing to take to experience the wild, boundless joy of climbing.

I know about the wild, boundless joy. And, as a therapist, I know about the darker, shadow-side of things. Climbers, in my experience, also have access to an extraordinary range of emotional experience—from the darkest shadows and doubts to the most profound delight. Therapy can expand and restore access to this range. It can alleviate suffering and open new mental space for connection and relationships. It can help you be more present and authentic in your life.

What is Therapy?

At its core, therapy is a relationship. The relationship can be between a therapist and a client, or a therapist and several clients in a group. It can look really different, depending on the setting and the people involved. What happens in therapy, too, can look really different. But the main idea is that through this relationship, you develop a space where you can explore yourself—your identities, experiences, and relationships—and through this exploration, grow and change. Sometimes this change is necessary because of pain or suffering, and sometimes it’s voluntary. Sometimes therapy is incited by a traumatic event or loss. Sometimes someone wants a change, or feels something is off in their relationships. Sometimes people struggle making decisions or don’t feel that they don’t know themselves. There are infinite reasons to seek therapy, and none is inappropriate or wrong.

What is a Therapist?

Think of your therapist as your mental belayer. A therapist is your partner, your supporter. Their job is to help you, and even though they’re a person in their own right, during the process of therapy, you are their focus. They can’t climb for you, or even really with you, but they can make sure you don’t fall too far. A key part of therapy is trusting your therapist, which is why choosing one matters. This doesn’t mean you’ll like them all the time, or that they’ll never disappoint you, but the strength of the therapeutic relationship is one of the strongest predictors of good outcomes. So find someone with whom you feel a genuine connection, for whatever reason that might be.

You Get to Choose Your Therapist

This may seem obvious, but it’s incredibly important, and in times of stress or pain, it’s easily overshadowed by other things. You always have agency in your own mental health. This agency begins with choosing a therapist, and continues in every session. Don’t like the way things are going? Say something. Feel uncomfortable? Mention it. This is often easier said than done because of the power dynamics in therapist/client relationships, but that’s why it’s worth reiterating. Hopefully, in an effort to address this dynamic, your therapist will ask you if it’s going okay and provide opportunities for you to give feedback. If you still feel like it’s not a good fit, find another therapist. That’s totally okay.

Read Beneath Their Profile

Therapists write blurblettes about themselves for potential clients to find, and many of them are similar. We’re all required to meet more or less the same training standards, etc., so if someone is a therapist, chances are they’re going to have a lot in common with other therapists. Except we’re all individuals, too. Search for that individuality. In what field was their undergraduate degree? Do they say anything else about themselves? Would it change something if you knew they shared some axis of your identity? Finding a provider through the Climbing Grief Fund is a great example. At baseline, you know they know something about climbing. Things like that can be important points of connection, and can help you feel safe and understood.

Ask for a Consultation

Since fit matters so much, ask to talk to several therapists in a more casual way before starting work together. It’s very often a free service and can give you a lot of information. Talking to more than one can help you start to suss out the differences if you’ve got no idea what you want in a therapist.

Think About What You Want Therapy to Be

Therapy is very rarely a back and forth exchange of sequential childhood traumas and silent, thoughtful Mhms. Sometimes it is, but often not. Therapy is collaborative and generative and exploratory. It’s about curiosity and fantasy and possibility. Thinking ahead of time about what it is you’d like to get out of therapy, even if it’s a simple or vague idea, can be useful in directing the work. Maybe you don’t want to think about ____ anymore, or you feel lonely. The answer to this question might be obvious, or it might not. Either way, it can help you in your search for a therapist, especially if you’re looking for something in particular, like someone who specializes in grief or anxiety or postpartum issues.

Be Prepared—Therapy Will be Work

Therapy, healing, progress, change, growth. However you want to think of what it is you’re working toward in therapy, it’s probably going to be hard. You may feel worse before you feel better. The most rewarding projects often progress this way, too. This is why you need your therapist to be the most psyched and supportive mental-belayer ever. In the rough moments, they’ll make sure you don’t quit.

What If I Can’t Afford It

This is a real question. Insurance and media portrayals often make access to therapy seem like a luxury, but caring for your mental health is just as important as taking care of your physical health, and there are affordable options.

If you have insurance, call and talk to someone about how your benefits apply to therapy (they often call it mental health or behavioral health). There may even be some reimbursement if your therapist is out of network.

If you don’t have insurance, many out-of-pocket providers offer sliding scale fees based on income, and some community mental health centers offer even more affordable sliding scale options. Group therapy can also be a cheaper option—it’s is a super cool, lesser-known modality of treatment where you get to do your own work supported by a group, and witness and support the work of others. Finding these resources may take some research, but they are out there.

And if it’s just financially impossible to spend any money on therapy right now, that’s okay too. Many communities offer 12 step programs. These meetings are always free and often frequent, and though the model is based on recovery from substance use, the recovery-oriented principals have been applied to lots of different mental health challenges like depression and anxiety.

I’d also still recommend thinking about what it is you want to work on, and searching for books or other free resources. The CGF has some psychoeducation here and resources here, and there are others, gathered by the practice where I work, here.

Outside of any treatment, you can take care of yourself in small, everyday ways that impact your emotional wellbeing. You can climb, eat well, and sleep. You can make small changes. You can sit in the sun, have a dance party, forgive yourself. You can do whatever moves you. You can seek out human connection that feels authentic, and ask others for help when you need it.

There is Nothing Wrong With You

For anyone seeking therapy: there is nothing wrong with you. Humans struggle. Being alive is complicated, unexpected, and sometimes painful. We are all impacted by our environment and our relationships. Feeling as though one needs help is not a sign of weakness. Vulnerability is not a sign of weakness. Thinking you might need therapy is not evidence of impairment. We all need support sometimes.

Climb Hard and Feel As Much As You Can

I sincerely believe it’s possible to do both.


Anna Kim has a Masters in Social Work from Smith College and is currently an Associate Psychotherapist at Kindman & Co. in Los Angeles, CA where she is supervised by Paul Kindman, LMFT. She’s also a climber, thru-hiker, and general adventurer—with a particular love of slab. Send her an email at anna@kindman.co

Give a Belay, Get a Belay

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What can 25,000 members do to support each other? How many many fellow members can we support in this time of crisis?

We’ve created a network for AAC members who are part of the at-risk population, or are currently quarantined at home due to COVID-19 illness, to get a belay (a grocery run, a pharmacy stop, etc.) from fellow members in the area with the capacity to help.

GIVE A BELAY

If you’re an AAC member who has the capacity to help, fill out this form. Spread the word—if you know someone that could use this assistance, please share the form, email address or phone number with them.

GET A BELAY

Are you an AAC member who is currently quarantined at home due to COVID-19 illness, or part of the at-risk population? Do you need help with a grocery or pharmacy run? Fill out this form, email us at info@americanalpineclub.org, or call us at 303-384-0110 to get a belay from a fellow member.

Spread the word—if you know someone that could use this assistance, please share the form, email address or phone number with them.

NEW! Clubhouse Live, a virtual events series

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Introducing the dynamic new events series from our couch to yours!

While we all adjust to new normals, the AAC is creating a new way to connect: Clubhouse Live, a virtual weekly gathering hosted by members of our community. It’s a chance for us to come together from our homes, to learn something new, and to meet our fellow climbers. We don’t have to share a rope to share the stoke—climb on into the Clubhouse!

Coming Up:

  • Chelsea Rude, Tuesday, March 31 at 6pm MST

  • Brette Harrington with Madaleine Sorkin + the Climbing Grief Fund, Thursday, April 9 at 6pm MST

United We Climb, Virtually

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Let's Climb! Red Rocks Trip, April 2020

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April 19 - 25, 2020
 Red Rock, NV

Too much time in the gym this winter? Craving sunny sandstone? Excited to meet new climbing partners?

Join the AAC’s Education Director, Ron Funderburke, AAC's trips organizer Carol Kotchek, and your fellow Club members in the legendary climbing area Red Rock, Nevada. If you've been looking for the best time to go, the right partners, or the motivation to put together the logistics here’s your opportunity!

We have rented a huge, deluxe, AirBNB, all you need to do is get yourself to Vegas with your personal gear and your psych! Please note the AirBNB is bunk-style so be prepared to share rooms.

Basecamp Includes:

  • Six nights lodging within 25-minute drive to Red Rock ParkBreakfast and lunch to-go options.

  • Daily single pitch climbing with Ron Funderburke, AMGA Certified Rock, Alpine Guide.

  • Opportunity to learn new skills and debate best practices.

  • Discount on local guide services with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides
    In past years this event has sold out. Not all AAC members wanting to attend have been included due to limited space.  This year we will have a short application to fill out. There are no pre-qualifications to attend this event. Our goal with the application process is to create a diverse group of climbers.

To receive an application please contact Carol Kotchek at frontrange@americanalpineclub.org 
We will be letting applicants know by Feb 20 of their acceptance into the event. 

Let's Climb, Red Rock Trip Cost: $600
A $200 non-refundable deposit is required at the time of application acceptance. The remainder is due on or before Feb 29, 2020.

NEW! AAC Memberships for Active Duty Military Members and Veterans

Photo: Caroline Bridges at a Hill-to-Crag event in Golden, Colorado on Cheyenne and Ute land.

Photo: Caroline Bridges at a Hill-to-Crag event in Golden, Colorado on Cheyenne and Ute land.

The Club has recently launched a discounted membership for active-duty military members and veterans!

You can access veterans or military discount in your members profile when you renew, or on our website when you join!

We know service doesn’t stop when the uniform comes off. Did you know that veterans are among the most active volunteers working to improve our communities? U.S. Army Major Byron Harvison, life-long climber, AAC Salt Lake City Chapter Chair and active-duty military member is one of many examples. Major Harvison has played an instrumental role in our Hill-to-Crag events which unite veterans, active military members, AAC volunteers, state offices of outdoor recreation, and local, state, and national policymakers to connect via a day of rock climbing.

Coming back from my tours overseas, I felt a continued need to serve. When I saw what the AAC was doing with education, land stewardship, and public policy, I wanted to get involved… The Hill to Crag events I organize include military members and veterans. It’s a way to get the veteran community engaged and give them a seat at the table. It’s a great fit: a lot of veterans I know love taking people outside and helping them stay active and fit.
— U.S. Army Major Bryon Harvison

AAC CEO Highlighted in New Film

Photo: Chipsa House

Photo: Chipsa House

Our CEO Phil Powers summited K2 without oxygen and has a first ascent on Denali, but it was a simple climb on his lunch break that left him with the biggest challenge of his life following a miscommunication and a 70-foot fall. Watch the film below.

There is no single moment that defines your life. To be grateful, to live in the moment, to love everybody you can, try to give back... [an accident like Phil’s] definitely wakes you up.
— Sarah Pierce