CLIMBERS: TAKE ACTION AGAINST CORONAVIRUS

Climbers across the country have set personal needs aside, cleared the crag out of concern for their community, and taken precautions to help "flatten the curve."

Thank you.

With the easing of shelter-in-place policies across the country, restrictions on access to crags are beginning to change. Deciding whether it’s appropriate to head back out to your local crag will be an important and localized decision. To help, we want to offer a set of guiding principles on when and how to re-rack for the next pitch.

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Dear Friends, 

The COVID-19 pandemic is unprecedented and impacts us all. Our community must act thoughtfully to “flatten the curve” to reduce transmissions of the virus over time.

We are concerned about transmission of COVID-19 to rural or gateway communities. These remote towns often have limited access to medical facilities and their closely-knit, interconnected social structures are more prone to the spread of infection. 

Please keep places like Bishop, Fayetteville, Moab, Springdale, and Slade as safe as possible by limiting recreation-based travel at this time. If you have a trip planned, please reschedule until we are through this health emergency. This is not the time to head to the desert or rally to your favorite national park for “social distancing.” While outdoor time is necessary for each of us during this turbulent period, we need to stay local and limit our interaction with vulnerable communities.

 Consider also keeping outdoor objectives conservative to reduce the load on the medical system. Backcountry emergencies contribute to overloading hospitals and potential shortages of ventilators in intensive care units. As always, be safe out there and mindful of unnecessary risks.

Finally, we all should follow the directions outlined in the CDC’s guide on how to keep yourself and others safe from the virus. It’s necessary that we as a climbing community make decisions from the perspective of the most vulnerable people in our community.

The AAC is certain that the climbing community can be a part of the solution to COVID-19 by taking collective action now.

Respectfully, 

Your Club

PS—Learn about updates to our lodging facilities in light of COVID-19.

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LODGING CORONAVIRUS UPDATE

Karuna Mira Sah photo.

We understand that our shared outdoor places are more important than ever. In an effort to protect local communities and follow state and national recommendations, as of March 17, all AAC facilities will remain closed to the public and to members. Additionally, we will be closing primitive camping at all facilities. Reservations are open for dates after May 8 (June 6 for GTCR). Refunds and modifications will be made without penalty for dates prior to April 30. As the situation relaxes or progresses, dates are subject to change. We appreciate your support, adaptability, and understanding during this time.

We encourage you to find local trails, hikes, and rides, or whatever you may have access to—a walk in the park, a run with your dog. Maintain appropriate distances from others you may encounter (at least six feet), wash your hands frequently, continue to leave no trace, breathe fresh air, and be grateful for the wild places we have.  

During this pandemic we encourage folks to stay local. Traveling puts everyone around us at risk. Many of the communities we travel to for our outdoor pursuits are small, isolated, and unexposed. Many of them may not have the medical or financial resources to mitigate COVID-19. So, please stay home. Play in the yard. Find ways to be a good steward to your local community, not just your climbing community. If you’re able, purchase gift cards online from local businesses and donate to mutual aid programs to help those out of work. If you’re extra able, please donate to us! We are keeping up the good fight—educating climbers and focusing on policy to keep our wild places wild. 

Soon, we will all be outside together again!

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AAC Announces 2020 Cutting Edge Grant Winners

February, 2020, Golden, CO—T​he American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to announce this year’s Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100-year tradition of supporting athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.

The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2020 grant cycle, the AAC awarded $15,000 to three recipients.

Nick Aiello-Popeo will receive a grant to attempt a new route on the west face of Ganesh in Nepal. Aiello-Popeo and Justin Guarino are planning to make their ascent in lightweight alpine style. Aiello-Popeo added, “Ganesh shares its name with the Hindu holiday Ganesh Chaturthi which celebrates Ganesha, a deity with the head of an elephant. Of Ganesha’s many attributes, he is revered as the ‘remover of obstacles.’ There could be no better theme for an alpine-style expedition!”

Vitaliy Musiyenko will receive a grant to attempt unclimbed routes on both Melanphulan and Nuptse in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Musiyenko will attempt these ascents with Connor Chilcott, winner of the 2020 McNeill-Nott Award, and said, “Success will require top-notch fitness, abilities to climb difficult ice and rock, as well as knowledge on how to quickly and efficiently aid climb. It appears to be a perfect cutting edge challenge.”

And, lastly, Kurt Ross will receive a grant to attempt a new route on a 7,000m peak in the Eastern Karakoram. Ross and partners Jackson Marvell and Matt Cornell have committed to climbing in lightweight alpine style, adhering to Leave No Trace ethics throughout the trip. They are training for success in some of the most dramatic mountains in the world.

The Cutting Edge Grant is supported in part by Global Rescue, the world’s leading provider of integrated travel risk and evacuation memberships. CEG recipients are additionally awarded a one-year, full Global Rescue membership—an upgrade to the standard AAC rescue coverage. Upgraded benefits include: $500,000 of rescue evacuation; repatriation back to the US; deployed Global Rescue Personnel; and more—a service intended to help AAC members climb hard and return home safely.

The AAC has inspired and supported cutting-edge climbing achievements for over 100 years. Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1st through November 30th.

For more information, visit a​mericanalpineclub.org/cutting-edge-grant.
For more information on Global Rescue and their memberships, visit globalrescue.com.

About American Alpine Club​The American Alpine Club is a 501(c)(3) charitable organization whose vision is a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. Together with our members, the AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world's most sought-after climbing annuals, the ​American Alpine Journal​ and ​Accidents in North American Mountaineering​; cares for the world's leading climbing library and country's leading mountaineering museum; manages five campgrounds as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $80,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants that fund adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member at​ americanalpineclub.org​.

AAC Announces 2020 Cutting Edge Grant Winners

The AAC is pleased to announce the 2020 Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100-year tradition of supporting athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.

The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2020 grant cycle, the AAC awarded $15,000 to three recipients.

Nick Aiello-Popeo will receive a grant to attempt a new route on the west face of Ganesh in Nepal. Aiello-Popeo and Justin Guarino are planning to make their ascent in lightweight alpine style. Aiello-Popeo added, “Ganesh shares its name with the Hindu holiday Ganesh Chaturthi which celebrates Ganesha, a deity with the head of an elephant. Of Ganesha’s many attributes, he is revered as the ‘remover of obstacles.’ There could be no better theme for an alpine-style expedition!”

Vitaliy Musiyenko will receive a grant to attempt unclimbed routes on both Melanphulan and Nuptse in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Musiyenko will attempt these ascents with Connor Chilcott, winner of the 2020 McNeill-Nott Award, and said, “Success will require top-notch fitness, abilities to climb difficult ice and rock, as well as knowledge on how to quickly and efficiently aid climb. It appears to be a perfect cutting edge challenge.”

And, lastly, Kurt Ross will receive a grant to attempt a new route on a 7,000m peak in the Eastern Karakoram. Ross and partners Jackson Marvell and Matt Cornell have committed to climbing in lightweight alpine style, adhering to Leave No Trace ethics throughout the trip. They are training for success in some of the most dramatic mountains in the world.

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February, 2020, Golden, CO—T​he American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to announce this year’s Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100-year tradition of supporting athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.

The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2020 grant cycle, the AAC awarded $15,000 to three recipients.

Nick Aiello-Popeo will receive a grant to attempt a new route on the west face of Ganesh in Nepal. Aiello-Popeo and Justin Guarino are planning to make their ascent in lightweight alpine style. Aiello-Popeo added, “Ganesh shares its name with the Hindu holiday Ganesh Chaturthi which celebrates Ganesha, a deity with the head of an elephant. Of Ganesha’s many attributes, he is revered as the ‘remover of obstacles.’ There could be no better theme for an alpine-style expedition!”

Vitaliy Musiyenko will receive a grant to attempt unclimbed routes on both Melanphulan and Nuptse in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Musiyenko will attempt these ascents with Connor Chilcott, winner of the 2020 McNeill-Nott Award, and said, “Success will require top-notch fitness, abilities to climb difficult ice and rock, as well as knowledge on how to quickly and efficiently aid climb. It appears to be a perfect cutting edge challenge.”

And, lastly, Kurt Ross will receive a grant to attempt a new route on a 7,000m peak in the Eastern Karakoram. Ross and partners Jackson Marvell and Matt Cornell have committed to climbing in lightweight alpine style, adhering to Leave No Trace ethics throughout the trip. They are training for success in some of the most dramatic mountains in the world.

The Cutting Edge Grant is supported in part by Global Rescue, the world’s leading provider of integrated travel risk and evacuation memberships. CEG recipients are additionally awarded a one-year, full Global Rescue membership—an upgrade to the standard AAC rescue coverage. Upgraded benefits include: $500,000 of rescue evacuation; repatriation back to the US; deployed Global Rescue Personnel; and more—a service intended to help AAC members climb hard and return home safely.

The AAC has inspired and supported cutting-edge climbing achievements for over 100 years. Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1st through November 30th.

For more information, visit a​mericanalpineclub.org/cutting-edge-grant.
For more information on Global Rescue and their memberships, visit globalrescue.com.

AAC and the Climbing Grief Fund Announce Grief Grants

The Climbing Grief Fund (CGF) and the American Alpine Club (AAC) are pleased to announce that the ​Climbing Grief Grant​ is now open to the community. The Climbing Grief Grant offers financial support for individuals directly impacted by grief, loss, and/or trauma related to climbing, ski mountaineering or alpinism.

Those seeking support may apply for this grant at any time throughout the year. There are currently 15 Climbing Grief Grants to be awarded in 2020.

The grants are awarded in amounts of $600 each and are to be used toward individual therapy or a professional program that engages a grief or trauma framework. We’ve created a ​mental health directory​ to help anyone in the community find a therapist and/or supportive resources for grief and trauma. Grant applicants may also select a therapist or program that is not listed in the directory.

learn more about the Grief Fund, or apply for a grant.

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February 18, 2020, Golden, CO—The Climbing Grief Fund (CGF) and the American Alpine Club (AAC) are pleased to announce that the Climbing Grief Grant is now open to the community. The Climbing Grief Grant offers financial support for individuals directly impacted by grief, loss, and/or trauma related to climbing, ski mountaineering or alpinism.

Those seeking support may apply for this grant at any time throughout the year. There are currently 15 Climbing Grief Grants to be awarded in 2020.

The grants are awarded in amounts of $600 each and are to be used toward individual therapy or a professional program that engages a grief or trauma framework. We’ve created a mental health directory to help anyone in the community find a therapist and/or supportive resources for grief and trauma. Grant applicants may also select a therapist or program that is not listed in the directory.

Applicants may apply online for the Climbing Grief Grant. All applications will remain confidential.

The Climbing Grief Fund acts as a hub to connect individuals to effective mental health professionals and resources. CGF is working to evolve the conversation around grief and trauma in the climbing, alpinism, and ski mountaineering community.

The Climbing Grief Fund was founded in 2018 by professional climber Madaleine Sorkin after a series of tragedies in her community. Sorkin currently directs the CGF.

“Offsetting some of the cost of therapy for individuals impacted by climbing-related tragedy was the original idea that pulled me into starting CGF,” Sorkin said, “so it’s exciting for me to see these grants become a reality. The grants are a concrete service that we can provide for our community and my hope is that our community quickly uses them up and CGF secures funding to offer more in 2020.”

Sorkin is curious how well her community will take to using these grants and whether demand will exceed the 15 budgeted annually. Through increased donations, the Climbing Grief Fund would like to offer more of these unique grants and continue to expand their programming. Currently, CGF programming includes Climbing Grief Grants, Story Archive Project, Mental Health Directory and Resources, and Psychoeducation Workshops. The Story Archive Project contains CGF’s filmed interviews with community members about the impact of grief and loss and how the individual is moving forward.

An original film called The Color of Mourning b rings together these interviews and will premiere on April 23 at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder, Colorado.

To learn more about CGF and to donate, please visit https://americanalpineclub.org/grieffund.

Thank you for your support of the American Alpine Club, the Climbing Grief Fund, and this important program.

Happy Valenclimbs Week!

Print these out and give them to your partner-in-climb for a chance at sparking a belaytionship. xo, your AAC

Our Content Manager Emma doodled these with love, and with some creative input from the comments of last year’s post. Pun credits: 1st to @jendet2, 2nd to @drewpellitieri, 3rd to @loscambones, 4th to @_lord_jord, 5th to @ambeckman0. We <3 all of you.

In case you missed them, last year’s Valenclimbs are below.

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AAC's Guidebook to Membership is Here

Cover photo by Drew Smith.

Our 2019 Guidebook to Membership is here! The Guidebook serves as a storyboard and yearbook as well as a literal guidebook to Club member benefits. The majority of each issue is dedicated to member photos and stories, working to define (and redefine) the ever-changing faces of American climbing and the Club that serves to unite them. From mountain art to community issues to conservation and advocacy stories, the Guidebook covers many important topics from a unique member-perspective. So, flip on through and get inspired. You might even find a new discount that you didn't even know you had.

Some stories we’re particularly excited about this year include:

• Art for the In-Betweens: Artist Spotlight, by Brooklyn Bell

• Navajo Rising: An Indigenous Emergence Story, by Aaron Mike

• Glacial Views: A Climate Scientist Reflects, by Seth Campbell

• 1Climb, Infinite Potential: Kevin Jorgeson Breaks Down Walls by Building them

• On Pushing: A Grief Story, by Madaleine Sorkin

• An Ode to Mobility: the Range of Motion Project Tackles Cotopaxi, by Lauren Panasewicz

…and there’s so much more, including tear-out-and-send policy postcards by Jill Pelto.

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Phil Powers to Step Down from Position as AAC CEO

Powers climbs in Red Rocks. Photo: Irene Yee.

A LETTER FROM AAC CEO PHIL POWERS

Dear AAC members, climbers and friends;

This month, I informed our Board of Directors that I will be moving on from my role as the American Alpine Club’s CEO. These years have been some of the most rewarding of my life, and coming to this conclusion was not easy. After fourteen years at the helm of this wonderful organization, this feels like the right time. The Club is in a strong position, ready for a smooth transition, and poised to fuel the next phase of American climbing. My transition will take place over the course of the next year. I have spent a lot of time thinking about the next steps—not only what I’ll do next, but what’s best for the AAC.

Climbing continues to be the driving force in my life. Sharing this lifestyle—the contact with the natural world it provides, the attention to health it demands, and the partnerships it cultivates—with others has been my central effort during my time at the AAC.

Powers at an AAC Climbers' Gathering prior to an Annual Dinner.

Powers advocating for public lands with staff and volunteers at Outdoor Retailer.

The Club has made huge strides in the last decade and a half, and I’m incredibly proud of our accomplishments. Together, we grew our portfolio of lodging facilities from one to five, reached a membership of 25,000, and vastly increased our reach in areas like public policy and education. These milestones were only possible because of thousands of people’s work. I have had the privilege to lead an organization of members, donors, volunteers and staff who share time, resources, goals, and ropes together. Today’s AAC is anchored by a united community of climbers who yearn to offer their knowledge and stand by their values—values like supporting public lands, access to wild and vertical places, and sharing our care for one another through mentorship, education and rescue benefits.

I will leave this role feeling more anticipation than satisfaction. In many respects, we have only begun to see the ways in which climbing benefits individual lives and, more broadly, is a force for good. I think of these years as foundational to an even greater future, and I look forward to watching that unfold—and contributing where I can.

Powers with climber Mason Earle at AAC's Annual Dinner (photo: Jim Aikman).

Powers on the dance floor at AAC's Excellence in Climbing event (photo: Alton Richardson).

My experience here has been a special one. I’ve been able to spend time, often at the crag or in the mountains, with some of the early greats in American climbing. I’ve been able to get to know (and even climb with on their “rest days”) contemporary climbers who continue to advance our craft. Many of them have gone on to become extraordinary ambassadors for the landscapes and ecosystems we depend on.

The AAC board has begun its search for my replacement, but this is not my goodbye. I am committed to supporting that effort in every way that makes sense over the coming year. As I move on from the AAC, I look forward to spending more time with my family and with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, which I have owned with my partners for the last twenty years. I will also be spending more time with the wild places we have worked so hard to protect.

And, of course, I’ll still be climbing, so look for me at your crag. There are many I still want to visit.

With gratitude,

Phil Powers

Powers and the many attendees of the 2019 Climb the Hill event in D.C. (photo: Stephen Gosling).

Powers on the Muldrow Glacier in 1996.

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We've Completed Our Most Challenging Ascent Yet: Climb the Hill

Climbers and Climb the Hill attendees listen during the standing-room-only senate reception we hosted. Photo © Stephen Gosling.

The 4th annual Climb the Hill with Access Fund is all wrapped up, and it was our most impactful effort to date!

Climb the Hill represents the interests of the climbing community among national policy-makers. Professional climbers, outdoor industry representatives, and recreation advocates accompany us on Capitol Hill, where we meet with federal lawmakers to discuss issues affecting the climbing and greater outdoor recreation community.

This year, we:

• Brought 60+ athletes, outdoor brands, non-profit partners, and community advocates together on Capitol Hill in D.C.,

• attended a hearing on streamlining permitting for outfitters and guides via the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation (SOAR) Act and the Recreation Not Red Tape (RNR) Act,

• and offered a Justice, Equity, Diversity, & Inclusion (JEDI) training for team members, crafted by the Climb the Hill JEDI Taskforce.

And:

We advocated for climate forward solutions.

We spoke up for public lands protections.

We rallied for recreation access and enhancement.

We demanded appropriate funding for land management agencies.

We outlined Justice, Equity, Diversity, & Inclusion (JEDI) principles in our lobby efforts with the support of our JEDI Taskforce..

A staffer, Alex Honnold, and Justin Napolitano approach a meeting. Photo © Stephen Gosling.

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Announcing: Our 2019 Live Your Dream Grant Winners

We’re thrilled to congratulate the winners of our 2019 Live Your Dream Grant!

The Live Your Dream grant, powered by The North Face, is designed to help every-day adventurers take their abilities to the next level. It is about personal progression. It is about supporting each other; getting out there to push our individual limits; taking our skills to the next proving grounds, wherever that may be. The purpose of this grant is to support and promote unforgettable experiences for climbers—to dream big, to grow, and to inspire others.

We received a record number of applicants, making this year’s pool of Live Your Dream applications one of the most competitive yet, and we’ve made some hard choices to award a total of $55,700 to 122 recipients. This year’s winners include climbers looking to complete their first trad leads, climbers chasing cutting-edge first ascents, and everyone in between.

View the winners’ projects, then start dreaming up your own for next year! Applications will open again next February, 2020.

2019 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Inductees Announced

We’re stoked to celebrate our 2019 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Inductees! These are folks who have had a significant impact on climbing history through contributions in mountain culture, environmental responsibility, and community. 

Our first inductee is climber, conservationist and author Laura Waterman, who founded The Waterman Fund grants program to support trail work, stewardship, education, and research. She’s pictured above with her late husband, Guy, in 1970. Photo: Waterman Collection.

Our next inductee is Ken Yager, a climbing guide and founder of the Yosemite Climbing Association. In 2004, he started Facelift, a non-profit responsible for removing over 1 million pounds of garbage from the park. The event continues to be the largest volunteer cleanup in park history. Photo, above, by Michael Brown.

Finally, we’re honored to present the H. Adams Carter Literary Award to Kelly Cordes. Kelly has made it his mission to maximize outdoor time. This focus strongly influences his climbing, which includes new alpine-style routes in Alaska, Peru, Patagonia and Pakistan. He’s also been known to put pen to paper, writing many climbing articles, serving as longtime editor of the AAJ, and authoring the book, “The Tower: A Chronicle of Climbing and Controversy on Cerro Torre.” Photo, below, by Kevin Cooper.

We’ll be officially inducting these amazing individuals into the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence at our Excellence in Climbing Celebration in Golden, CO on June 1—get your tickets!

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Announcing: our 2019 Research Grants!

We're proud to announce our 2019 Research Grant recipients! This year, we're awarding more than $16,000 to researchers pursuing scientific endeavors in the mountains.

From studying the effects of glacier tourism on the Juneau Icefield to building a collaborative climbing management strategy in Ten Sleep, the projects our researchers are embarking on are going to make positive change.

These grants are powered by National Renewable Energy Laboratory and Ridgeline Venture Law and supported by Fourpoints Bar and KAVU. 

Photo courtesy of 2018 Research Grant Recipient Martí March Salas, who studied the effects of climbing on Mediterranean cliff vegetation.

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March 26, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is proud to announce the recipients of the 2019 Research Grants, powered by the National Renewable Energy Lab and Ridgeline Venture Law, with support from Four Points, Kavu, and the following endowments: Arthur K. Gilkey Memorial Fund and the Bedayn Research Fund. This year, the Club is awarding more than $16,000 to researchers pursuing scientific endeavors in mountain environments around the world.

“We are proud to support these valuable research projects,” said AAC Policy Manager Taylor Luneau. “The work that young climber scientists are doing in the mountains reveal important findings on many aspects of climbing such as a changing climate and stewardship and land management strategies for healthy and resilient ecosystems. Ultimately, we hope this research can be used to inform climate and land use legislation to the benefit of all climbers and outdoor recreationists.”

Megan Behnke - $1,500

Smoky ice: How have alpine and glacier tourism impacted Juneau Icefield biogeochemistry?

Megan Behnke is a Ph.D. student in Earth, Ocean, and Atmospheric Sciences at Florida State University. She plans to travel to the Juneau Icefield, in coastal Southeast Alaska, to study the impact of tourism on the local icefield-to-ocean ecosystem.

Scott Braddock - $1,500

Climate impacts on the glaciers and wildlife of the Southern Patagonian Icefield, Chile

Scott Braddock is a Ph.D. student in Earth and Climate Sciences at the University of Maine. His research focuses on identifying the dominant mechanism of glacier acceleration in the Southern Patagonia Icefield, and retreat impacts on glacier stability and biodiversity in Bernard O’Higgins National Park. 

Jesse Bryant - $1,500

A policy science inquiry into the cultural conflict in Ten Sleep, WY

Jesse Bryant is a Masters student in Environmental Management at Yale. His research aims to systematically chart a comprehensive picture of the resource questions in Ten Sleep by employing an interdisciplinary multi-method approach called the policy science framework. Ultimately, this study may act as a guide for national climbing advocacy groups and local groups in Ten Sleep to clarify the source of apparent “problems,” discover common interests with locals, and build a more collaborative climbing management strategy in Ten Sleep Canyon.

Donovan Dennis - $1,270

Mountain stability in a warming world: investigating environmental controls on frost weathering in cold regions

Donovan Dennis is a Ph.D. student in Earth Science at the GFZ German Research Centre for Geosciences in Potsdam, Germany. Dennis’ research will focus on investigating the magnitude of weathering on recently exposed (de-glaciated) bedrock experiencing different climate conditions. The Juneau Icefield (JI) is an ideal setting to test these effects, as it has an abundance of recently exposed bedrock and, additionally, a strong climate gradient across the east-west axis of the icefield. The proposed work on the JI will be carried out in collaboration with the Juneau Icefield Research Program (JIRP).

Juliann Allison - $1,157

The role of climbers' identities, ethics and activism in conserving and preserving sandstone climbing areas

Juliann Allison is an Associate Professor and Department Chair of the University of California, Riverside, Gender & Sexuality Studies department. Her research will focus on examining climbers’ identities as sources of environmental ethics, and climbing practices that are most likely to motivate their participation in individual and organized conservation programs to support the long-term ecological viability of sandstone climbing areas.

Georgia Harrison - $1,300

Impact of rock-climbing disturbance and microhabitat characteristics on cliff-face vegetation communities of the Linville Gorge Wilderness Area

Georgia Harrison is a Master’s student in Biology at Appalachian State University. Her team looks to determine the relative influence of rock-climbing activity, cliff-face microtopography, and microclimate on the cliff-face vegetation communities of the Linville Gorge Wilderness Area (LGWA). In addition to improving current plant inventory records, their study will provide land managers with information regarding the potential impacts of recreational rock climbing on cliff-face plant communities in the LGWA.

Dara Miles - $683

Golden eagle nest monitoring in Boulder Canyon rock climbing areas (in collaboration with the National Forest Service)

Dara Miles is the Director of the Boulder Climbing Community’s (BCC) Eagle Monitoring Program. In collaboration with the National Forest Service, BCC works with local climber-volunteers to monitor Golden Eagle nests in Boulder Canyon, CO. This grant will fund additional equipment to assist volunteers and the Forest Service in their ongoing monitoring of the eagles and their habitats in a popular climbing area.

Wade Parker - $1,500

A floristic survey of Buckeye Knob bouldering area: inventory and climber education

Wade Parker is the Vice President of the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC), a Local Climbing Organization based in Raleigh, NC. The CCC, working with two local cliff ecologists and climbers, will conduct a floristic inventory at the Buckeye Knob bouldering area in Watauga County, NC. This information will be used to educate all visitors and foster greater stewardship in support of a healthy, resilient, local ecosystem.

Jeffrey Perala-Dewey - $1,500

Climbing with contaminants: quantifying atmospheric deposition of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) into the snowpack of Utah's Wasatch Mountains

Jeffrey Perala-Dewey is a Ph.D. student in the Department of Chemistry and Biochemistry at Utah State University. This study will benchmark the level of PAH deposition into the Wasatch Range. Determination of both the magnitude of alpine contamination as well as the type of contaminants found in the Wasatch Range will provide a valuable starting point for further research in the region. Results will indicate whether these contaminations may be ecologically significant during spring snow melt.

Brianna Rick - $1,500

Rock glaciers as climate resilient cold-water reservoirs in alpine basins

Brianna Rick is a Ph.D. student in Geosciences at Colorado State University. Her research focuses on quantifying the volume of ice within the Lake Agnes rock glacier in Colorado, a permafrost feature containing internal ice layers more resilient to climate change. This research will aid in understanding current and potential future stream flow contributions of rock glaciers.

Wilmer Esteban Sanchez Rodriguez - $1,350

Impact of the black carbon on the melting of Vallunaraju Glacier in the Cordillera Blanca

Wilmer Esteban Sanchez Rodriguez is a researcher working with the American Climbers Science Program in Peru. Their work with this project proposes to estimate the melting of the Vallunaraju Glacier in the Cordillera Blanca as a result of black carbon particle distribution and solar radiation across the glacier.

Anais Zimmer - $1,430

Future of periglacial landscape: alpine ecosystems and deglaciation in the tropical Andes and French Alps

Anais Zimmer is a Ph.D. student at the Department of Geography and Environment at the University of Texas at Austin. The long-term goal of this project is to examine the complex reciprocity between climate, high alpine ecosystems, and human systems, through a comprehensive reconstruction of the dynamics of communities and of species assemblages after glacial retreat. Her project will focus equally on ecological processes and human systems to sustain livelihood activities and downstream services.

Learn more about the AAC Research Grants: americanalpineclub.org/research-grants

AAC Lodging Reservations Now Open

Reservations for the Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch, and the campgrounds in Rumney, the New River Gorge, and the Gunks are now open for the 2019 season! Book a bunk or a tent site and start planning those summer trips.
 

2019 Jones Grant & Live Like Liz Winners Announced

Photo courtesy Shawna Paoli.

We're thrilled to announce the 2nd Annual Jones Snowboards BC Adventure Grant and Live Like Liz Award winners!

The 2019 BC Adventure Grant winner is Graeme Greenwood of Bozeman, MT. Graeme and a partner will attempt a unique traverse and peak descent in the Greater Yellowstone region. The 2019 Live Like Liz Grant winner is Mt. Baker local Shawna Paoli. Shawna and partners will attempt a splitboard powered circumnavigation of Mt Baker.

Huge thanks to all that applied! We were blown away by the quality of proposals. Inspired? Our Live Your Dream grant is still open.

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Congrats to our 2019 McNeill-Nott Award Winners!

Rebecca Ross. Photo courtesy Rebecca Ross.

Lindsey Hamm. Photo by Dan Gambino.

Congratulations to our 2019 McNeill-Nott awardees, Rebecca Ross and Lindsey Hamm! This grant, supported by Mountain Hardwear, honors Sue Nott and her partner Karen McNeill by funding amateur climbers exploring new routes or unclimbed peaks with small and lightweight teams.

Rebecca and her team plan to summit the three highest peaks in Mongolia, located specifically in the Mongol Altai Range, including Khuiten Peak (4,374m). the highest point in Mongolia. The Altai Tavan Bogd National Park, where these three peaks are accessed, is pristine with a variety of interesting flora and fauna. Rebecca chose these particular peaks because of its remoteness, untouched beauty, and strong cultural presence with the Mongolian Nomadic Eagle Hunters.

Lindsey and her team will travel to Zanskar, India in search of big wall style climbing and maybe some mixed climbing routes. Last year, weather prevented her from completing her full objective in the region, and she remains amped to explore and learn even more about the local, culture, community, and climbing opportunities.

Inspired? Find out more about our grants.

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AAC Celebrates International Women's Day

The AAC wouldn’t be the Club we are today without the work of womxn of all walks of life. Today, this month, and year-round, we celebrate the accomplishments—both on and off the climbing wall—of female and non-binary climbers, mountaineers, and advocates. Thank you all for being here.

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HOW DOES THE AAC SUPPORT FEMALE CLIMBERS?

• We're running women's specific clinics at every 2018 Craggin' Classic event.

• We're featuring women on the cover of all three of our publications.

• We're celebrating women in positions of leadership in the organization.

• We're running women's-specific grants, like the Live Like Liz Grant and McNeill-Knott Award.

• We're featuring ascents by women in our Cutting Edge podcast.

• We supported the Sexual Harassment in Climbing Survey.

• We support women's initiatives by partnering with groups like Brown Girls Climb, Outdoor Women's Alliance, and FlashFoxy.

• We're working a a chapter-by-chapter level to support other local women's events and initiatives.

• The American Alpine Journal is working toward telling more women's stories this year.

• We're actively working to have an even gender split in our member base that reflects the demographics of the climbing community.

• Do you have ideas? Aspects of all this that we could be doing better? Contact us! Your feedback and input inspires us to create change, and we’re grateful for all of it.

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UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Finals Begin Today in Denver

We’re stoked to be kicking off the UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Finals here in Denver today (Friday, Feb. 22)!

The new North American tour stop will serve as the 2018/2019 World Cup Ice Climbing Finals in which over 100 athletes from 18 countries around the world will compete for the overall World Cup in both Lead and Speed categories.

The 2019 event is the first time the Ice Climbing World Tour has come to Denver, Colorado. The weekend event is being held in Denver’s Civic Center Park and is free to the public. Come for the climbing, stay for the Barbagazi Winter Festival featuring games & activities for everyone: Ice Maze, Obstacle Course, Fat Bike Course, Axe Throwing, Live Music, Ice Bar, Food Trucks, Fire Pits and more!

Come down to Denver and join the fun if you can'; the event is totally FREE! If you can’t make it, you can still stay in the loop by watching the competition live.

Get Your Annual Benefit Dinner Tickets Before They're Gone!

Registration for the 2019 Annual Benefit Dinner Weekend is now open, and tickets are selling fast! The Club’s largest gathering and celebration of the year, this event will explore the triumphs and tragedies of speed climbing.

The Annual Benefit Dinner raises funds vital to AAC programs like conservation, education, and grants. We couldn't do these things without the support of our amazing members like YOU!

The weekend is jam packed with something for everyone. This year’s Send n’ Social will be hosted at Mission Cliffs, complete with a celebrity climbing comp, libations, clinics, games, and more. Saturday morning, enjoy presentations from climbing’s stars and engage with compelling panels. The 2019 Annual Climbing Awards recognize outstanding achievements in conservation, climbing, and service to the climbing community.

Tickets are limited and selling out quickly—get yours now!

#AACdinner18

2018 at the AAC: a Recap

Thank you all for being part of a wonderful year at the Club! We couldn’t do it without you.

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Celebrate the Holidays With Us: A Climber Gift Guide

Photo: AAC member Tim Banfield

‘Tis the season! Let us make some recommendations for everyone on your gift list.

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For the long-term partner-in-climb, who loves tracking miles and always gives a soft catch:

Treat them to a Limited Edition Suunto Ambit 3 AAC Watch— they deserve it.

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For the cragging buddy who offers you a cold one after every send (or flail):

Repay the favor by gifting them this Mountainsmith Cooler with an AAC logo, stocked with their favorite brews.

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For the old-school climbing geek:

Give them the gift of historical inspiration- and a beautiful centerpiece for their coffee table- with a collectible book from our library.

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For that friend who’s always cold, at the crag or in the gym:

Keep them cozy with a mountains pullover hoody, and get bonus points for the sweet graphic.

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For the climber pal who’s made you utilize your WFR training:

Make sure it doesn’t happen again by letting them learn from Accidents in North American Mountaineering.

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For those who believe the descent can be as fun—or more fun—than the ascent:

Go big with a gift so your loved one or friend can go big on these custom skis (or, treat yourself—you deserve it!). We've partnered with Meier Skis and artist Noelle Phares to create a custom AAC ski built just for you.

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For literally everyone:

There’s never been a better time to give the gift of AAC membership— the gift that keeps them safe, inspired, and climbing on. Learn more about why every climber should be part of the Club.

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