Last year millions of viewers were awed by Free Solo, the feature film that documented Alex Honnold’s historic solo ascent of El Capitan. We were stupefied by the level of free climbing ability and mental strength required to even conceive of this feat, much less achieve it. We also were captivated by the debate that ensued. Many commentators viewed Alex’s climb as a moral failing, and many harangued the system that would allow such an ascent and the society that would laud it.
Cleaning an Anchor in Single Pitch Climbing
Accident data in the United States clearly indicates that the routine task of anchor cleaning is clearly too routine for some of us, and not routine enough for others. The inescapable reality is that experienced and and inexperienced climbers, alike, are susceptible to mishap during this seemingly mundane process.
Every accident on record has a slew of contributing factors, to be sure, and it would be impossible to create best practices that could account for all possible contingencies. However, one common thread indicated by accident reporting and a review of instructional literature is that anchor-cleaning sequences, up to this point, have not necessarily been dictated by any unifying principles or concepts.
This article will attempt to reset the bar on that deficit, and align the reader with a set of value-based decision making tools that inform our recommendations for a generalizable best practice. This article will start with the following assumption: the climbing team consists of a lead climber that has been lowered to the ground, through a redirected top-anchor, the anchor material needs to be retrieved, and the climbing team is operating in a single pitch context with a permanent fixed anchor.
This context is common on any single pitch outing. The climber is toproping, when she arrives at the top of the pitch she will retrieve the anchoring tools.
Often, the climber/cleaner also removes equipment from the climb, equipment that the initial leader left behind.
Certain values should govern the cleaning procedure every time it occurs, and each of these values can be used to analyze the effectiveness of any cleaning sequence.
Those values are as follows:
Changing safety systems, like going on and off belay or switching from being belayed to rappelling, opens up opportunities for error. It also takes time, requires communication and double checks. It is inherently more efficient and safer to use one safety system at all times.
It is valuable for the cleaner to be connected to the climbing rope, in some way, at all times. That way the rope cannot be dropped.
It is valuable to minimize the amount of equipment needed to clean an anchor. If minimal equipment is needed, equipment cannot be forgotten.
Most Generalizable Cleaning Sequence: Lowering off the Rings
The cleaning sequence that best applies the values listed above requires the cleaner to lower off an anchor's rappel rings or quick-links. There are a few reasons this sequence is not more widely adopted. First, the lowering sequence is misapplied and/or misunderstood. Second, there is misplaced sense of stewardship that seeks to preserve anchor hardware.
Many climbers erroneously believe that changing safety systems in unavoidable because they do not necessarily understand that a bight of rope can be pushed through rappel rings. They might also misunderstand the different ways climbers can connect to an anchor. Some connections between a climber and an anchor are critical, and they require strength and security. Like a PAS, a personal tether, or anchoring with the climbing rope and a clove hitch. These kinds of connections are both strong and secure. Combined with a locking carabiner, they are capable of holding over ten times the climbers body weight in some cases.
Second, many climbers misunderstand the actual impacts lowering off the rings make on communal fixed hardware. Lowering off rings, undoubtedly, wears rings out faster than rappelling. But, it is important to remember that the rings are engineered for the purpose of lowering. They are designed to sustain the wear and tear of lowering, and then be replaced. Even if lowering resulted in drastic ring erosion, it is worth considering how a more efficient and safer lowering sequence may be worth it. As accident data surrounding rappelling accumulates, it is worth considering that our friends and family members are more valuable than stainless steel rings, and the only real cost of keeping them safer is replacing rings more frequently.
Having asserted those two common misunderstandings, let’s look at a cleaning sequence that maintains one unremitting safety system (the belay), requires minimal equipment, and never detaches the climbing rope from the cleaner.
Step One: Fifi. Upon arriving at the anchor, the leader can Fifi in to any point in the anchor, but the master point is usually well positioned for this task. A Fifi is a common tool among aid climbers and the concept can be valuable in a cleaning sequence. The idea is to continue to rely on the belay for ultimate security. Why relinquish it? But, the cleaner will want to connect to the anchor somehow so that the cleaning sequence can proceed more efficiently. So, taking a single quickdraw, any of the quickdraws cleaned off the climb for example, and connecting the belay loop to the master point, will allow the cleaner to work without maintaining a stance or a grip on the rock.
Any quickdraw cleaned off the pitch can serve as a "Fifi".
Connecting to the masterpoint with a "fifi" is not anchoring. It's just a place to sit for a minute. No need to say anything to suggest that the belayer should not continue to keep the climber safe.
Step Two: Thread a Bight through the rap ring(s). The cleaner will then call for slack, enough slack to run a bight of rope through the rap ring(s). Once the bight has been passed through the ring, a Figure 8 on a Bight should be tied.
Most rap rings and quicklinks are big enough to pass a bight of rope through. The bight only needs to be big enough to tie a Figure-8-On-A-Bight. Note the hangers are thick rounded steel typically found at belay stations; do not pass rope through the thinner, sharper edged hangers used on route.
Try to imagine the precision in this moment. The bight is now blocked against the rings. If anything were to go wrong, the climber is secured in a way, by that blocked knot. The belayer did not hear anything confusing or distracting like “Off Belay” or “In Direct” or any other command that could suggest that relinquishing the belay is the next step.
Step Three: Clip the Figure on a Bight to the belay loop with a locking carabiner or two non-locking carabiners (opposite and opposed). Once that bight knot is connected to the climber’s belay loop, the climber may call to the belayer for tension, or take. The belay will do so, and the climber’s body weight will now be counterweighted through the rings by the belayer.
In this moment, the climber is connected to the original tie-in, the bight-knot and locking carabiner, and the fifi. It's a good time to double check the system.
Try to imagine the precision of this moment. Even if the belayer somehow misunderstood his/her role in the cleaning sequence, the call to take gives the climber a chance to double check the entire system before initiating any other critical steps. The climber is essentially anchored at this point by the knot block, the bight clipped to the belay loop, and the original tie-in, which still has not been touched.
Step Four: Untie the original tie-in, clean the anchor, and lower. After double checking all the critical links in the system (the belayer, the bight knot, the locking carabiners, and the rope running through the rap rings) the climber can untie his/her original figure 8 follow through. That long tail can be pulled through the rings and allowed to dangle harmlessly behind the cleaner. The anchoring tools can all be removed from the bolts and stowed. The climber can announce that he/she is ready to lower, and allow the belayer to lower to the ground.
When lowering, the tail from the original tie-in will dangle behind the bight knot.
The cleaner never relinquished the belay. The cleaner was never untied from the rope, and therefore did not create an opportunity to drop it. The cleaner only communicated three unambiguous commands to the belayer: “Slack,” “Take, ” and “Ready to Lower.” The cleaner did not need PAS or daisy chain or ATC or friction hitch or a half dozen carabiners to complete this sequence.
Most anchor cleaning should happen in this way; it is the generalizable case.
Know the Ropes: Cleaning an Anchor
Know the Ropes: Safer 4th Class
Each year we see many accidents that very likely could have been prevented or mitigated by the use of a rope in easy terrain, including unroped falls on technical alpine ridges (often caused by loose rock), approach and de- scent accidents due to rockfall or small slips, and scrambling accidents in terrain deemed “too easy for a rope.” This article seeks to make climbers aware of alternatives to soloing (scrambling) that use the equipment they’re likely carrying anyway and incur little or no time cost.
Give a Damn
Climbers gather around the Sprinter to talk about how they can be better stewards of climbing areas while climbing at Wall Street during this year’s Moab Craggin Classic. Lands of the Ute, Dine, and Ancestral Puebloan peoples. AAC member Levi Harrell
5 minute read
Summit Register 004—Letter from the Editor
AAC Policy Team
As climbers we have an extraordinarily intimate relationship with our landscapes, whether that be high alpine environments, our local crag, bouldering spot, or our gyms. Since 1902, the AAC has been committed to protecting these spaces. As our definition of what climbing spaces are and what it means to protect and conserve them have evolved, we have come to firmly believe that protecting communities, people, and culture is as important as protecting physical spaces. Our renewed focus on people and communities in concert with protecting and preserving our landscapes is an expression of this belief.
Photo by AAC member Bryan Miller
Over the last few months, we’ve reflected on our strengths and most pressing needs as a Club. These conversations have led to restating our policy and advocacy vision: We envision a future in which 5 million climbers are united in protecting the climbing places we love for current and future generations.
The foundation of our policy and advocacy strategy centers on actively engaged climbers. This is reflected both in our community organizing work and in a government affairs approach, which elevates climber experiences and stories. Climbers are our lifeblood and our work is member-centered and volunteer-powered. We will engage local and national issues with the collective voice of our 25,000 members and thereby activate the climbing communities that surround them. Our community gives a damn. And because we know that politics, policy, and advocacy is predominantly local, we’re building the Climbers Advocacy Network (CAN) to activate the most effective advocates to inform local issues such as climbing management plans and permitting. We plan to feature the work of the CAN in upcoming issues of the Summit Register.
Building the CAN has already started, with a small, passionate group of member-volunteers raising their hands to lead their regions. As we build the network and empower the CAN with information, we’ll lean into supporting 30x30 legislation, land policies impacting climbers, equity and inclusion, and amplifying work of non-profit partners and community groups, among other pressing issues. In our conversations with AAC members, land managers, lawmakers, adjacent non-profits, and community based organizations, there’s been great enthusiasm for this vision.
Our collective voice has the strength to create new ideas, move conversations, and give direction to the climbing community. As we educate and begin funneling resources to building the CAN, we take time in this issue of the Summit Register to consider some key issues for climbers at the national level, and steps we can each take to support national legislation. But with the CAN as inspiration, it is clear that advocacy goes beyond Capitol Hill.
This issue of our quarterly policy zine explores the nuances of advocacy, and the many creative ways individuals and local climbing organizations (LCOs) can advocate to protect our communities and physical spaces. In one feature article, AAC policy manager Taylor Luneau considers the role of local climbing organizations and local climbers in fostering effective and accessible climbing management plans for our overcrowded public lands. In another article, climber and advocate Kate Rutherford describes the power of eating local organic foods in the regions where you climb. Advocacy has many avenues, and we know our work ahead will ultimately lead to further engagement with lawmakers and change makers who can broaden our impact. We are looking forward to working side by side with all of you towards this future.
Updates from your Policy Team
Boulderers weaving their way through the Buttermilks. Land of the Northern Paiute, Eastern Mono/Monache, Newe peoples. AAC member Dawn Kish
5 minute read
What Went Down This Fall?
Amelia Howe, AAC Advocacy Manager
As we pack up our sport climbing gear and enter into the winter season, it is hard to believe that we are already one year into a new administration. It feels like just yesterday we were activating our community to vote, and outlining our vision for the newly elected Biden-Harris administration. Now, new priorities have been outlined by the White House, and steps have been taken to act on these priorities. All of these factors impact how we strategize our advocacy efforts, and how you and your fellow climbers can assist us in our work.
Rachel Goldman climbing the steep featured roofs of Hueco
Tanks. Lands of the Tampachoa (Mansos), Ndé Kónitsąąíí Gokíyaa (Lipan Apache), & Mescalero Apache peoples. AAC member Dawn Kish
The American Alpine Club’s (AAC) vision for the current administration was outlined in the last Summit Register. It covered everything from creating a nationwide 30x30 implementation plan, restoring the National Environmental Policy Act, and utilizing public lands management and protections as a tool for fighting the climate crisis and prioritizing equitable access to landscapes and greenspaces. While there is endless work to be done, and much to hold the administration accountable to, there are things worth celebrating as we hit the one-year mark.
Infrastructure
A monumental milestone worth celebrating is the successful passage of the Infrastructure Investment and Jobs Act signed into law on November 15th. While this bill may not sound like anything relevant to climbers, it contains strong legislative support for fighting the climate crisis and supporting public lands.
The public lands system is full of aging infrastructure that has long been neglected. In order to ensure an increase in equitable access to these resources for generations to come, our lawmakers need to prioritize funding for the necessary stewardship and maintenance work. From parking lots to restrooms to individual trails, these critical resources deserve continued attention and support, and luckily, the Infrastructure package works to directly address that need.
The Impact of Infrastructure on Recreation, Climate Action, and Public Lands
While this bill touches on everything from job creation, traditional infrastructure priorities such as bridge and roadway repair, and social infrastructure needs like nationwide broadband access, it also included priorities specifically related to what we advocate for in the recreation space. What exactly did the passage of this bill get us from a recreation, public lands, and climate perspective?
This is what we’re most excited about.
$100 million for Restoring, Preparing, or Adapting Recreation Sites on Federal Lands
Investments in Natural Infrastructure
$250 million to fund the Forest Service’s Legacy Road and Trail Program
$47 billion in climate resilience measures
$65 billion in clean energy and power grid-related investments
$21 billion to clean up decommissioned, or orphaned, oil and gas wells on public and Tribal lands
$50 million for endangered-species recovery and conservation programs
$500 million to address forest fire planning, defense, and response
A Note on the Build Back Better Act
The Budget Reconciliation package, or the Build Back Better Act (BBB), was a crucial element to the current presidential administration’s efforts to fight climate change and build national climate resilience. However, negotiating this bill and our national spending priorities have been the major political crux of the year. While the BBB passed in the House on November 19th, recent developments in the Senate indicate that the BBB as it stands faces a significant roadblock, and will have to be reconsidered and renegotiated as a new bill. While this is discouraging for those who were excited to see climate and public lands priorities within the bill, this setback won’t stop us. There is still great reason to get involved, and advocate for the policies that matter most to climbers. One thing is clear, the fight for public lands and climate action is not over.
Though the BBB will no longer exist by the same name moving forward, we need to fight to continue to have our priorities heard as these topics are renegotiated. Here is what we find most imperative and hope resurfaces in a future package:
Key Elements of the BBB for Climbers That We Should Carry Forward
Sara Roudebush and Michelle “Meesh” Van Riper get ready to start the day with a comically appropriate amount of pads for a day of climbing
at the Buttermilks. Lands of the Northern Paiute, Eastern Mono/Monache, Newe peoples. AAC member Dawn Kish
Funding for the creation and implementation of the Civilian Climate Corps
Investments in the effectiveness of the National Environmental Policy Act
Protections for the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
Investment in public land agency climate resiliency
Mineral leasing act reform
Bonding reform and decommissioned, or orphaned, wells clean up
While it often feels like decisions made in D.C. are out of our hands, it is critical that we remember we elect these individuals to represent us. We have the power to call or write to them regarding how a decision they made makes us feel. We have the power to re-elect them or to vote them out of office. We have the power to hold them accountable to the needs of our communities. And so many of you already have. You have sent thousands of emails in support of the critical amendments that will ensure public lands remain protected, resilient to climate impacts, and accessible to all. Thank you for supporting these initiatives. We must keep pushing. Keep on the lookout for new ways to advocate for our priorities in the New Year, and ensure your voice is heard.
AAC Retains Search Firm to Help Find Next CEO
Photo: Garrett Grove
On behalf of the American Alpine Club's Board of Directors, we want to update you on the search for the organization’s next CEO and the steps being taken to hire the best candidate to lead the Club forward.
We are pleased to announce that its CEO search committee selected Koya Leadership Partners a leading executive search and strategic advising firm dedicated to connecting exceptionally talented people with mission-driven clients. Koya has over 15 years of experience recruiting outstanding for organizations in the conservation, advocacy, and outdoor fields. In 2019, Koya Leadership Partners became part of the Diversified Search Group. Both firms have been founded and led by women and have long track records of building diversity and equity internally and through their placements. Koya Managing Director, Kara Teising, will lead the search process and candidate recruitment effort on behalf of the AAC and the board.
Thanks to our search committee made up of board members Deanne Buck, Steve Swenson, Mark Butler, Peter Metcalf, David Landman, Kevin Duncan, Len Necefer, Graham Zimmerman and Jen Bruursema. Their time and dedication to the Club is reflected in the work so far and will undoubtedly secure a tremendous CEO.
January 27, 2020, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to announce that its CEO search committee selected Koya Leadership Partners a leading executive search and strategic advising firm dedicated to connecting exceptionally talented people with mission-driven clients. Koya has over 15 years of experience recruiting outstanding leaders for organizations in the conservation, advocacy, and outdoor fields. In 2019, Koya Leadership Partners became part of the Diversified Search Group. Both firms have been founded and led by women and have long track records of building diversity and equity internally and through their placements. Koya Managing Director, Kara Teising, will lead the search process and candidate recruitment effort on behalf of the AAC and the board.
After AAC CEO Phil Powers announced in the fall of 2019 that he would be stepping down in Summer 2020, the AAC Board of Directors created a CEO Search Committee dedicated to finding the Club’s next leader. Search Committee members Jen Bruursema, Deanne Buck, Mark Butler, Kevin Duncan, David Landman, Peter Metcalf, Len Necefer, Steve Swenson, and Graham Zimmerman selected Koya Partners after a competitive process that drew proposals from leading national firms.
“Given the growth and broad reach of all forms of climbing and love for the mountains, we feel it is important for the Search Committee to consider a pool of candidates that reflects the community,” Committee Chair Deanne Buck said. “Koya’s commitment to helping their clients achieve their missions by providing customized, strategic, and innovative services and support for acquiring and retaining exceptional talent, aligns squarely with AAC’s focus in hiring our next CEO.”
The role of the search firm is to engage a multitude of stakeholders to create a Candidate Profile, identify and attract qualified candidates, and work with the Search Committee to interview and select the right hire to lead their client organizations into the future.
To date, the AAC CEO Search Committee, in partnership with Koya, has prioritized early effective methods for broad and inclusive consultation and stakeholder engagement with the climbing community. This input will inform the Candidate Profile that the AAC Board hopes to announce early February, with the completion of the search and announcement of next AAC CEO in summer 2020.
Look What We Accomplished Together! 2019 in Review
Together we made 2019 a great year—Thank you! We’ve set a big goal for our community and our planet, and we’re 75% of the way there. Help us reach our goal of $200k before January 1, 2020!
2020 ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER WEEKEND: CLIMBERS UNITING FOR THE PLANET
December 5, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club will host the 2020 Annual Benefit Dinner (ABD) weekend March 13-15, 2020 in Denver, Colorado. Since 1902, the Annual Benefit Dinner has served to convene the climbing community and garner support for the Club’s work around the protection of our wild places.
“Reductions to public lands generally lead to irreversible change. With climbing’s continued growth there is a tremendous amount of work that still needs to be done to protect and preserve our climbing landscapes,” stated AAC CEO Phil Powers. “It’s important to me that my final dinner at the helm sets the Club up to continue this hard work.”
This year’s ABD will be presented by Patagonia and will feature a keynote by Kris McDivitt Tompkins, Former CEO of Patagonia and current president of Tompkins Conservation. Kris is a longstanding defender of wild places and a true champion for the planet.
Kris will speak March 14, 2020, at the Denver Center for the Performing Arts (1101 13th St, Denver, CO 80204). She and her late husband Doug Tompkins turned millions of acres across Chile and Argentina into National Parks in an effort to restore and re-wild landscapes. Most recently, Kris completed the largest private land donation in history, with over one million acres going towards creating or expanding ten national parks in Chile. To date, Tompkins Conservation has helped conserve more than 14.2 million acres.
The Annual Benefit weekend festivities will kick off Friday, March 13, at 6pm with the Send ‘n’ Social at Movement RiNo (3201 Walnut St, Denver, CO 80205). The Send ‘n’ Social includes games, libations, and a celebrity climbing competition. Saturday morning’s special panel discussions and presentations at the Hilton Denver City Center will be informational and inspiring sessions on topics ranging from public land issues to climate change. All weekend festivities surrounding the Dinner are open to the public.
The main event of the weekend—the Annual Benefit Dinner—begins at 6pm on the 14th. In addition to Kris' keynote address, the AAC will honor climbers with the 2020 Climbing Awards, enjoy dinner, a complimentary bar, and silent and live auctions. Climbing Awardees will be announced January 2020. To learn more or buy tickets for this rare opportunity to hear from Kris McDivitt Tompkins, visit: americanalpineclub.org/annual-benefit-dinner
About the American Alpine Club
The American Alpine Club is a 501(c)(3) charitable organization whose vision is a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. Together with our members, the AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world's most sought-after climbing annuals, the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering; cares for the world's leading climbing library and country's leading mountaineering museum; manages five campgrounds as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $80,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants that fund adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member at americanalpineclub.org.
$10,000 Awarded in Grants to Replace Aging Bolts
Photo: Craig Hoffman
The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the 2019 Anchor Replacement Fund grant award recipients. This grant program addresses the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents. This year, we are thrilled to announce funding for ten worthy anchor replacement projects across the country.
Wasatch and Uinta Mountains, UT - Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Red River Gorge, KY - Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative
Rumney, NH - Rumney Climbers Association
Sauratown Mountain and Cooks Wall, NC - Caroline Climbers Coalition
Obed, TN - East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition
New River Gorge, WV - New River Alliance of Climbers
Boulder Canyon and Shelf Road, CO - Boulder Climbing Community
Wet Mountains, CO - Southern Colorado Climber’s Resource and Action Group
Tahoe Basin, CA - Tahoe Climbers Coalition
Queen Creek Canyon, AZ - Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program
October 14, 2019, Golden, CO—The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the 2019 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards. Now in its fifth year, the grant program launched to address the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents. This year, we are thrilled to announce funding for ten worthy anchor replacement projects across the country.
Wasatch and Uinta Mountains, UT - Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) was awarded funding to replace aging hardware at crags across the region, including Maple Canyon, Little Cottonwood Canyon, American Fork Canyon, and the Uinta Mountains. Old hardware will be replaced with 1/2” stainless steel anchors using sustainable replacement techniques (hole re-use) to preserve the character of the routes and the rock. SLCA’s Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative is one of the leading local climbing organization-led fixed anchor replacement programs in the country.
Red River Gorge, KY - Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative
Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative (RRGFGI) was awarded funding to replace rusting and aging hardware on the steep sandstone cliffs throughout the region with 1/2” stainless glue-in anchors. RRGFGI is planning to replace over 300 bad bolts in 2020 and is striving to keep bad bolt reports in the region to fewer than 50 at any given time. RRGFGI works to replace aging bolts throughout the Red River Gorge region.
Rumney, NH - Rumney Climbers Association
Rumney Climbers Association was awarded funding to replace aging expansion bolts at several crags located at the popular Rumney climbing area. RCA’s efforts are widespread and ongoing, but emphasis in the coming year will be placed on updating hardware at Orange Crush, New Wave, and Bonsai with 1/2” stainless steel glue-in bolts.
Sauratown Mountain and Cooks Wall, NC - Caroline Climbers Coalition
Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) was awarded funding to replace aging hardware at Cooks Wall in Hanging Mountain State Park and Sauratown Mountain. CCC’s efforts will focus on replacing old 3/8” non-stainless wedge, sleeve, and drop-in anchors with new 1/2” stainless steel hardware.
Obed, TN - East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition
East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition (ETCC) was awarded funding to support their goal of rebolting the entire Obed in the next five years. ETCC has replaced 1,000 aging bolts in the past 17 months with new 1/2“ stainless anchors. This grant will help facilitate their ongoing effort to replace 4,000 aging bolts in the region.
New River Gorge, WV - New River Alliance of Climbers
New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) was awarded funding to rebolt the popular Tattoo and Beer Walls. These areas provide the highest concentration of beginner sport routes in the New River Gorge.
Boulder Canyon and Shelf Road, CO - Boulder Climbing Community
Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) was awarded funding to rebolt Black Widow Slab in Boulder Canyon and the Darkside at Shelf Road. The BCC will purchase 200 1/2” stainless steel sleeve bolts, 160 Wave Bolts, and 40 lower-off anchor set-ups to address aging hardware at these two popular crags.
Wet Mountains, CO - Southern Colorado Climber’s Resource and Action Group
Southern Colorado Climber’s Resource and Action Group (SoCo CRAG) was awarded funding to address aging hardware at crags in the Newlin Creek area of the Wet Mountains in southern Colorado. Efforts will focus on installing new 1/2“ stainless hardware and modern hangers on routes currently equipped with homemade hangers and aging bolts.
Tahoe Basin, CA - Tahoe Climbers Coalition
Tahoe Climbers Coalition (TCC) was awarded funding to replace aging hardware around the Tahoe Basin. As a newly formed local climbing organization, TCC’s efforts will bolster ongoing replacement efforts in the region, helping to ensure climbing in the Tahoe Basin remains accessible and bad bolts are replaced in a timely manner.
Queen Creek Canyon, AZ - Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program
Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program (CABRP) was awarded funding to address aging hardware at The Pond in Queen Creek Canyon. CABRP will replace 720 aging, rusty bolts with new stainless steel glue-in bolts. CABRP will also replace top anchor hardware on all routes with new quick links and top anchor hooks, addressing concerns around rusty, loose, and inferior hardware at the crag.
2019 Cornerstone Conservation Grant Winners Announced
The American Alpine Club (AAC) is proud to announce the recipients of the 2019 Cornerstone Conservation Grants, powered by REI. Our Cornerstone Grants support our vision of healthy climbing landscapes with annual awards to organizations, landowners, and individuals to fund projects such as human waste solutions, climbing trail restoration, and related infrastructure projects. This year, the committee reviewed a large number of well-qualified applications. They were heartened by the breadth of conservation projects planned across the country, and we continue to encourage local climbers to give back in a meaningful way, on a local level.
A big thanks to our corporate partners and to our Cornerstone Conservation Grant Committee members (listed below). Congratulations to our 2019 Cornerstone recipients:
Rumney Climbers Association
Rumney Rocks, Rumney, New Hampshire
By stepping up to address the environmental stewardship needs identified by the US Forest Service, the Rumney Climbers Association is helping to ensure that the climbing resources at Rumney remain open and accessible to current and future visitors. If conditions were to continue to degrade and the USFS was unable to adequately address these issues, there is a very real possibility that some sites could be closed or access severely restricted to mitigate climber impacts. The proposed work will ensure that the natural environment remains intact, allowing future visitors to experience Rumney as the beautiful outdoor climbing destination that it is renowned for.
Methow Valley Climbers (Methow Chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition)
Upper Methow Valley, Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, Washington
Methow Valley Climbers will use the funds to improve the infrastructure at the local, very popular, Fun Rock climbing area. Recreational rock climbing use of the cliffs and trails at Fun Rock began in the 1980's and has increased exponentially over the years. The area sees high use from March through the fall and has seen degradation of the user built platforms and trails, leading to reduced safety and poor flow of traffic. Local climbers have, over the years, built and maintained the landing areas, using whatever material was easily obtained, but have not been able to keep up with the huge numbers the area now sees. The greatest concerns are safety for the users and environmental damage to the fragile, unconsolidated soil and struggling plants.
Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition
Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, Red River Gorge, Kentucky
The RRGCC has new crag development underway at a location five minutes from one of our parking lots. We predict this to be a high traffic area, as it is full of moderates and development continues. We aim to build sustainable staging areas and trails more quickly to prevent unnecessary damage to the ecology of the area. The Cornerstone Grant will greatly help the RRGCC achieve sustainable development and mitigate heavy impact in what is sure to be a popular area.
New River Alliance of Climbers
New River Gorge and Fayette County, West Virginia
The proposed project will remediate the extensive damage at the Bridge Buttress area caused by many years of heavy use by climbers. The plan is to crib staging areas with timber and rock to create a series of connected flats that will slow runoff and put a stop to the continuous erosion and loss of vegetation. Grade improvements will connect the approach staircase to the stone staircase leading to the top of the crag and to the Layback area, climber's right of the main buttress. This project will also create initial recreational infrastructure in the newly purchased and established Needleseye Park, a municipal climbing resource in the City of Oak Hill, WV.
Northwest Montana Climbers’ Coalition
Stone Hill, Kootenai National Forest, Montana
Stone Hill is home to more than 500 climbing routes, many of which were developed without adequate trail establishment. The Stone Hill Trail Network Project will bring together land managers, climbers and volunteers to establish well-built trails and signage, significantly improving access to these beloved routes and making them easier to approach. Trail planning will be directed by the USDA Forest Service, and trail building will be done by groups of volunteers over a series of organized trail days in the next two seasons. Trail days will be an opportunity for the community to network and learn about sustainability and climbing area stewardship. The quality trails the community builds will improve sustainability by mitigating trampling and erosion on the steep slopes around the area, and encourage climbers to spread out and explore the classic, lesser known crags of Stone Hill.
Department of Conservation and Natural Resources
Forbes State Forest, Pennsylvania
Forbes State Forest boasts numerous recreational opportunities for visitors, among these climbing is a popular activity. Both Beam Rocks and Cove Rocks are heavily trafficked areas for climbers, hikers, and other recreational pursuits throughout the state forest. Due to the popularity of these areas, they are an unfortunate target for vandalism, including graffiti. For the past four years, Forbes State Forest has partnered with volunteers (Southwestern PA Climbers Coalition, Pennsylvania Parks and Forests Foundation) to regularly remove graffiti from these locations. The funds from this grant will equip volunteers with the tools and materials to remove graffiti on a bi-yearly basis.
Carolina Climbers Coalition
Table Rock State Park, Pickens, South Carolina
The Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) will use funds to build approximately 1.9 miles of trail leading to a never been open cliff called Pumpkintown. Currently an old logging road exists going up the escarpment for about 1 mile. This logging road does not reach the cliff base, which is the remaining 0.9 miles. The CCC will undergo phase 1 of trail construction, which is clearing the corridor for machine cutting and bench cutting by hand necessary spots. Opening of this new cliff is contingent upon an approach trail being built.
AAC Cornerstone Conservation Grant Selection Committee:
Rob Abramowitz, Audrey Todd Borisov, Elisabeth Bowers, Eddie Espinosa, Emily Hendrick, Matt Hepp, Ryan Kuehn, Jay Parks, Joe Sambataro, Jenna Winkler
Photo courtesy of Methow Valley Climbers (Methow Chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition)
American Alpine Club Heads to DC for Fourth Annual Climb the Hill
The American Alpine Club (AAC) and Access Fund are heading to Washington, DC for our fourth annual Climb the Hill event September 18-21. We’ll be bringing professional climbers, outdoor industry leaders, and advocacy partners to Capitol Hill to advocate for the lands and climate that are vital to climbing and outdoor recreation.
This year AAC and Access Fund will represent climbers by pursuing legislative and administrative action on recreation access and enhancement, energy development and leasing reform, funding for public land management agencies, recreation and conservation land designations, and climate change action.
Here’s how you can get involved:
Join us for the Senate Reception in DC.
Follow along while we’re on the Hill.
Show your support for our climate work with this Facebook frame.
September 10, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) and Access Fund are heading to Washington, DC for their fourth annual Climb the Hill event September 18-21. The two leading climbing advocacy non-profits will bring professional climbers, outdoor industry leaders, and advocacy partners to Capitol Hill to advocate for the lands and climate that are vital to climbing and outdoor recreation.
The Climb the Hill team, which includes renowned climbers Alex Honnold, Sasha DiGiulian, and Tommy Caldwell will meet with law and policymakers to advocate for increased access to public lands, environmental protections, and balanced energy policies on public lands.
According to Access Fund, nearly 60 percent of all rock climbing areas in the US are located on federally managed public land. The protection of these lands and the environment surrounding them is critical to the future of climbing and the safety of climbers. Access Fund and the AAC will represent climbers by pursuing legislative and administrative action on recreation access and enhancement, energy development and leasing reform, funding for public land management agencies, recreation and conservation land designations, and climate change action.
The Climb the Hill team will include representatives from prominent outdoor industry brands, such as Patagonia, Adidas, The North Face, CLIF, Brooklyn Boulders and REI. An array of non-profit and community partners will also join the team, including American Mountain Guides Association, Outdoor Alliance, Latino Outdoors, Brothers of Climbing, Brown Girls Climb, Sending in Color, Adaptive Climbing Group, Salt Lake Climbers’ Alliance, Red River Gorge Climbers, The Mountaineers, Protect Our Winters, and Outdoor Industry Association.
“Climbing is exploding in popularity, and this trend will continue into the future with the Olympics on the horizon. Our growing community is increasingly diverse and passionate about recreational access, protecting public lands, and supporting our land management agencies. With Climb the Hill, we’re bringing that message to policymakers in Washington, DC who hold in their hands the future of our public lands,” said Chris Winter, Executive Director of Access Fund.
“Climb the Hill is among our most effective ways to address the issues facing climbers on our nation's public lands. I am extremely pleased that over the years, the teams that make it great have become ever more diverse, dedicated and well-versed in the policy agenda we bring to our nation's decision-makers,” stated Phil Powers, CEO of AAC.
Learn more about this joint project at: ClimbTheHill.org
Inaugural State of Climbing Report Released
The AAC, in partnership with more than a dozen supporting organizations, is proud to release the first-ever State of Climbing Report, a comprehensive quantitative look at the American climbing community and its impact. View the inaugural report.
July 9, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club, in partnership with more than a dozen supporting organizations, is proud to release the first-ever State of Climbing Report, a comprehensive quantitative look at the American climbing community and its impact. The report details the growth, size, and demographics of the current community, and attempts to apply a yardstick to the community’s conservation efforts, economic impact, climbing-related accidents, and political advocacy.
The rising influence of the sport of climbing in the United States is undeniable; in 2018 nearly 4.4% of all Americans climbed indoors, a documentary about climbing won an Academy Award, and data shows a bright future with millions of millennials taking up the sport. Data also shows that climbing is relatively homogenous in demographic makeup—the majority of participants being white and male.
American Alpine Club CEO Phil Powers spoke to the effort to quantify climbing in America today: “We believe that collecting and distributing this information can lead to inspired action among industry leaders and beyond. If our strengths are exhibited, we can leverage them. If our weaknesses are revealed, let’s address them.”
Economically, the 2019 State of Climbing Report demonstrates that the climbing community is a force. It’s estimated that the sport contributed an estimated $12,450,000,000 to the economy in 2017, with the vast majority (87%) coming from trip- and travel-related expenditures. Due to the often-remote nature of outdoor climbing, many communities that benefit from climbing-related travel are rural, and the sport has significant economic impact in places like Lee County, KY; Lander, WY; and Sandrock, AL.
The full State of Climbing report was made possible by the collaboration of multiple key partners, including the Access Fund, Climbing Wall Association, American Mountain Guides Association, USA Climbing, USA Ice Climbing, United States Ski Mountaineering Association, Outdoor Industry Association, The NPD Group, The Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, Joy Trip Project, Brown Girls Climb, Latino Outdoors, Colorado Mountain Club, and Paradox Sports.
Download a free copy of the entire report at americanalpineclub.org/state-of-climbing-report
2019 State of Climbing Report — Quick Facts
In 2014, it was estimated that there were 7.7 million participants in climbing, up 6% over the previous year.
65% of all climbers are between the ages of 18 - 35 years old.
As of 2018, 4.4% of all Americans climb indoors.
Indoor climbers, or those who climb in gyms, make up 52% of the climbing population.
Climbing as a whole contributed $12,450,000,000 to the economy in 2017.
More than 25,000 watched the UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Finals in Denver, CO in 2019, making it the largest live climbing competition in world history.
57% of climbing areas are located on federally managed lands.
Climbers contributed more than 65,544 volunteer hours toward conservation and land stewardship efforts in 2018 through the Access Fund’s Adopt-a-Crag Program.
More than 334,000 people climbed or hiked a Colorado “Fourteener” in 2017, up 6% year over year.
50% of all climbing-related accidents occurred from “falling or slipping” on either rock or ice.
Across U.S. climbing gyms, there were just .007 reported incidents per 1000 visitor hours; when compared to a national average in CrossFit of 2.3 injuries per 1000 training hours, climbing gyms have an exceedingly low rate of injury.
Beginning in 2019 ESPN will begin televised coverage of National Championship Climbing Competitions.
Sport climbing is set to debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan.
Climbers for Climate—AAC Takes Action!
WE HEARD YOU! Climbers care deeply about the issue of climate change and are concerned about its impact on our climbing landscapes, communities and outdoor recreation economy. It is time that we address this direct threat to the climbing community and engage in coordinated action to mitigate the impacts of climate change. Learn more about the AAC’s stance. Add your voice to the fight!
June 4, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC), the country’s oldest and largest climbing advocacy organization, represents an outdoor community whose ethos is inextricably linked to healthy mountain environments and ecosystems. It is time that the Club addresses climate change as a direct threat to the climbing community and engages in coordinated action to mitigate its impacts. Failure to act with urgency threatens important alpine environments which support the health and vitality of our community. As such, the AAC is committing to taking action on climate change.
Around the world, mountain regions are warming at roughly twice the pace of the global average. The American Alpine Club, the advocacy voice of more than 24,000 climbers, is alarmed about the adverse impacts of climate change on climbing, climber safety, mountain environments. A recent AAC climber survey showed 94% of AAC members agree that climate change poses a great deal of risk to the places we climb, hike, and ski; the vast majority of survey participants also believe that human activity is the driving cause of climate change.
“It is clear the team at the American Alpine Club and me that the voice of the climbing community is critically important in today’s environmental and social efforts,” said AAC CEO Phil Powers. “I’m proud to be part of a committed group of people who are advocating for the health and sustainability of mountain environments, the ecosystems that house them, and the planet as a whole. We are addressing the challenges of climate change and we hope that you’ll join us; together, we’re stronger.”
The AAC is taking immediate steps to measure, minimize, and offset the organization’s own carbon emissions, as well as to divert staff resources and financial support toward political advocacy, scientific research through grants, and developing resources for members to make sustainable choices as they plan trips and expeditions.
Recognizing that climbers, skiers, and mountaineers are credible witnesses to change in the mountains, the American Alpine Club is also soliciting personal observations of how climate change is impacting the climbing landscape as part of a new Climate Story Collection. We encourage you to join the Club and contribute your story, which will be used to influence local and national policy and advocacy reform: http://bit.ly/2KqDmj7
UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Finals Draws Record-Breaking Crowds
Photo: Ben Nelson of Huck Adventures
On its inaugural stage in downtown Denver, CO, the 2019 UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Finals broke international records as the largest-ever audience for a World Cup Ice Climbing event and received a record number of online views with hundreds of thousands more tuning in to watch the competition’s live stream.
The two-day World Cup Ice Climbing Finals held in Civic Center Park, February 23 - 24, recorded a live crowd of more than 25,000, making the Denver World Cup Finals not only the most watched World Cup Ice Climbing event in the Tour’s history, but also one of the most well-spectated climbing events of all time.
Hosted and produced by the American Alpine Club, the event’s attendance more than doubled the original expectations. American Alpine Club CEO, Phil Powers, had never witnessed such a massive audience for a climbing event: “We exceeded our attendance goals for the full weekend before the end of the first day. People were blown away by the athleticism and intensity of the competition — I have no doubt many new ice climbers were created this weekend.”
February 25, 2019, Golden, CO—On its inaugural stage in downtown Denver, CO, the 2019 UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Finals broke international records as the largest-ever audience for a World Cup Ice Climbing event and received a record number of online views with hundreds of thousands more tuning in to watch the competition’s live stream.
The two-day World Cup Ice Climbing Finals held in Civic Center Park, February 23 - 24, recorded a live crowd of more than 25,000, making the Denver World Cup Finals not only the most watched World Cup Ice Climbing event in the Tour’s history, but also one of the most well-spectated climbing events of all time.
Hosted and produced by the American Alpine Club, the event’s attendance more than doubled the original expectations. American Alpine Club CEO, Phil Powers, had never witnessed such a massive audience for a climbing event: “We exceeded our attendance goals for the full weekend before the end of the first day. People were blown away by the athleticism and intensity of the competition — I have no doubt many new ice climbers were created this weekend.”
Located in Denver’s historic Civic Center Park, the competition was hosted in an urban setting that provided a more diverse audience in comparison to the Tour’s regular stops in mountain towns. Sunday evening’s Lead Finals had an electric atmosphere as just two men topped out on the 60-ft structure: 21-year-old Yannick Glatthard of Switzerland and Nikolai Kuzovlev of Russia. Glatthard, dubbed ‘Swiss Air’ for his flying, daring style, topped out 11 seconds faster than Kuzovlev, claiming the Gold with a dramatic victory leap off the top of the structure in front of an enthralled crowd. The women’s lead final left no less exhilaration with Maria Tolokonina of Russia nudging out Woonseon Shin of South Korea by a mere touch of the eleventh (and final) hold.
The big story for Saturday evening’s Speed Finals was Canada’s David Bouffard, who became the first North American to claim a World Cup medal with silver. Nikolai Kuzovlev of Russia took Gold with a blistering fast climb of 6.48 seconds. Maria Tolokonina of Russia also took Gold in the Women’s Speed Final in a big weekend medal sweep.
For complete results and World Cup Tour recap, please visit: https://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/
COMPETITION PHOTOS: http://bit.ly/2BSFQBL
AAC Launches New Film—A Live Your Dream Grant Story
[This film contains expletives—viewer discretion is advised.] Far Away is a climbing area where Jenny Fischer and Kat Whipple attempted a first ascent on their Live Your Dream Grant trip to Liming, China. Far Away, a film by Samuel Crossley Media documenting Jenny and Kat’s journey, is out now! Produced in partnership with Ortovox and Deuter.
Watch the film and then go apply for a Live Your Dream grant, powered by The North Face:
2019 Cutting Edge Grant Recipients Announced
Chantel Astorga. Photo: AAC member Anne Gilbert Chase
Congratulations to this year’s recipients of the 2019 Cutting Edge Grant! The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100 year tradition of supporting climbing athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives. This year’s winners are Sam Hennessey, Chantel Astorga, and Chris Wright. Read about their objectives and then listen to the latest Cutting Edge podcast to hear Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman talk about their wild new route, the tactics and gear required, and the two climbers' strong partnership, which will take them back to Pakistan this summer for a second attempt at one of the world's great unclimbed peaks.
The Cutting Edge Grant is supported in part by Global Rescue, the world’s leading provider of integrated travel risk and evacuation memberships. CEG recipients are additionally awarded a one-year, full Global Rescue Membership—an upgrade to the standard AAC rescue coverage. Upgraded benefits include: $500,000 of rescue evacuation; repatriation back to the US; deployed Global Rescue Personnel; and more—a service intended to help AAC members climb hard and return home safely.
January 29, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to announce this year’s recipients of the 2019 Cutting Edge Grant. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100 year tradition of supporting climbing athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.
The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2019 grant cycle, the AAC awarded $20,000 to three recipients:
Sam Hennessey ($8,000) to attempt the North Face of Chamlang (7300m) in the Eastern Himalaya of Nepal. Rob Smith, Seth Timpano, Michael Gardner, and grant-winner Sam Hennessey will attempt the unclimbed North Face this coming Autumn, in alpine style. The north face is an impressive feature, rising nearly 2000m directly to the summit ridge. The face has received attention almost yearly for the last decade, with no teams making serious progress due to poor climbing conditions, bad weather, or both. Hennessey has climbed technical routes all over the world, from the Himalaya to Patagonia.
Chantel Astorga ($6,000) to attempt Pumari Chhish South (7350m) in Pakistan's Hispar Karakoram. Astorga and Anne Gilbert Chase will attempt the unclimbed 2700m South Face in mixed climbing conditions and with an alpine style approach. In 2018, Astorga and Chase completed the first female ascent of Denali’s Slovak Direct (5.9X M6 W16+, 9,000’). They also completed the first ascent of the unclimbed SW face of Mount Nilkantha in India, with Jason Thompson.
Chris Wright ($6,000) to attempt an unclimbed 7000m peak in the Eastern Karakoram Range, Pakistan. The grant will fund expedition expenses for Wright and Graham Zimmerman. They will be joined by Mark Richey and Steve Swenson in attempting the first ascent of the peak in alpine style. Wright, Zimmerman, and Swenson previously attempted the peak but were unsuccessful due to uncooperative weather. Wright describes it as, “A stunning, oft-tried, yet unclimbed granite monster in a seldom-visited valley in the heart of the Karakoram...it is undoubtedly one of the most compelling undone peaks of the greater ranges.” Wright has been climbing for 17 years, including 11 expeditions to technical routes in the greater ranges. He holds numerous first ascents in Alaska, India, Nepal, Norway, and more.
The Cutting Edge Grant is supported in part by Global Rescue, the world’s leading provider of integrated travel risk and evacuation memberships. CEG recipients are additionally awarded a one-year, full Global Rescue Membership—an upgrade to the standard AAC rescue coverage. Upgraded benefits include: $500,000 of rescue evacuation; repatriation back to the US; deployed Global Rescue Personnel; and more—a service intended to help AAC members climb hard and return home safely.
The AAC has inspired and supported cutting-edge climbing achievements for over 100 years. Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1st through November 30th.
2019 US Team Announced for the UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Comp
We’re thrilled to announced the 2019 USA World Cup Ice Climbing Team. The team of 21 male and female athletes is set to compete in the upcoming UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Tour, and 18 will compete here in Denver, CO. February 23 – 24, 2019.
Golden, CO, December 5, 2018—The American Alpine Club (AAC), America’s oldest non-profit organization for climbers, is thrilled to announced the 2019 USA World Cup Ice Climbing Team. The team of 21 male and female athletes is set to compete in the upcoming UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Tour, and 18 will compete here in Denver, CO. February 23 – 24, 2019.
The AAC led the application process and final selection of the 2019 USA Team. Criteria was based on national rankings from recent competitive ice climbing seasons and events, and a preference for athletes who compete in cross-disciplinary ice competition (e.g. athletes that compete in both the Difficulty (Lead) and Speed competitions). The AAC also provided “developmental” spots on the team for less experienced competition climbers who demonstrate exceptional talent and commitment to the sport. Equal team positions were available for men and women in the performance (6) and developmental (2) categories.
The final 2019 USA Team consists of 21 adults and 10 youth members.Phil Powers, CEO at the AAC said “These athletes represent the cutting edge of one of the more wild versions of the climbing craft. I am astounded every time I witness their gymnastics and delicate skill all performed far off the ground with ice axes and crampons.”
The 2019 event is the first time the Ice Climbing World Tour has come to Denver, Colorado and the first time a World Cup Finals event has been held in the USA. The weekend event will be held in Denver’s Civic Center Park and is free to the public. The ice climbing competition will take place over two days with qualifying rounds on Sat, Feb 23, and semi-finals and overall finals on Sun, Feb 24. The event is expected to attract over 200 athletes from 21 countries around the world to compete for the overall World Cup in both Difficulty and Speed categories.
Competition ice climbing combines formidable over-hanging walls of ice with artful technique and sheer power. In the lead discipline, ice climbers require great technique, tactical mastery and nerves of steel to execute complex moves in seemingly improbable positions dozens of feet above the ground. The speed discipline is almost a vertical take on the 100m sprint in the sport of athletics. In 2014, competitive ice climbing debuted as an exhibition sport at the Sochi Winter Olympics and is hopeful for a full-scale Olympic debut in the near future.
2019 USA World Cup Ice Climbing Team:
Denver World Cup Finals:
Mens Lead:
Tyler Kempney
Thomas Gehrlein
Aaron Montgomery
Grant Kleeves
Kevin Lindlau
Wesley Fowler
Carter Stritch
Troy Anger
Womens Lead:
Corey Buhay
Catalina Shirley
Claire Poppendeck
Mikayla Tougas
Angela Tomczik
Angela Limbach
Kendra Stritch
Mens Speed:
Tyler Kempney
Thomas Gehrlein
Kevin Lindlau
Wesley Fowler
Marcus Garcia
Jake Bourdow
Troy Anger
Carter Stritch
Womens Speed:
Corey Buhay
Catalina Shirley
Claire Poppendeck
Angela Tomczik
Angela Limbach
Kendra Stritch
Lindsay Hastings
2018/2019 International World Cup Events:
Mens Team:
Tyler Kempney
Thomas Gehrlein
Kevin Lindlau
Carter Stritch
Troy Anger
Liam Foster
Cody Stevenson
Andrew Lamb
Marcus Garcia
Carter Stritch
Womens Team:
Angela Tomczik
Angela Limbach
Kendra Stritch
Lindsay Hastings
World Cup Youth Team:
Keenan Griscom
Calvin Daugherty
Kylie Cullen
Georgia Witchel
Aubrey Palmer
Maija Fox
MaKenzee Van Buren
Liam Foster
Cody Stevenson
Mikayla Tougas
Katie Seymour
Lindsay Levine
Christopher Atchison
Catalina Shirley
Support the USA Ice Climbing Team.
Read more about the 2019 USA World Cup Team here:
https://americanalpineclub.org/world-cup/2018/11/26/2019-usa-world-cup-ice-climbing-team
2019 Denver Ice Climbing World Cup Schedule:
Friday, Feb 22 Opening Ceremony
Saturday, Feb 23 8AM – 8PM // Lead Qualifiers, Speed Qualifiers
Sunday, Feb 24 8AM – 5PM // Lead Semi-Finals, Lead Finals, Speed Finals, Closing Ceremony, After Party (hosted by the AAC)
International Volunteers Day: Thank you, AAC Volunteers!
On this International Volunteer Day, we're sending virtual hugs to all the rad individuals who give their time to keep the AAC moving forward. Meet a few of them here.
$10,000 In Grants to Replace Aging Bolts
Photo: Craig Hoffman
The American Alpine Club and Access Fund are excited to announce the 2018 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards with funding going towards nine worthy anchor replacement projects across the country:
Rocky Pass/Gallatin Canyon, MT - Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition
Red River Gorge, KY - Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative
Slab Camp, KY - Morehead Tourism Commission
Shawangunk Mountains, NY - Mohonk Preserve
Obed, TN - East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition
Smith Rock, OR - High Desert Climbers Alliance
Boulder Canyon, CO - Boulder Climbing Community
Spearfish Canyon, SD - Black Hills Climbers Coalition
Ten Sleep Cayon, WY - Bighorn Climbers Coalition
Golden, CO, October 15, 2018—The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the 2018 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards. Now in its third year, the grant program launched to address the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents. This year, we are thrilled to announce funding for nine worthy anchor replacement projects across the country.
Rocky Pass/Gallatin Canyon, MT - Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition
Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition (SMCC) was awarded funding to replace plated 3/8” wedge anchors with 1/2” stainless steel sleeve and glue-in anchors using sustainable replacement techniques (hole re-use) to preserve the character of the routes and the rock. SMCC will engage local volunteers to expand their ability to tackle aging bolts at the gneiss and limestone crags in the region.
Red River Gorge, KY - Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative
Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative (RRGFGI) was awarded funding to replace rusting and aging hardware on the steep sandstone cliffs throughout the region with 1/2” stainless glue-in anchors. RRGFGI is planning to replace over 300 bad bolts in 2019 and is striving to keep bad bolts in the region to fewer than 50 at any given time. RRGFGI works to replace aging bolts throughout the Red River Gorge region.
Slab Camp, KY - Morehead Tourism Commission
Morehead Tourism Commission was awarded funding to tackle rebolting efforts at Slab Camp, a half-mile section of cliff line featuring approximately 60 routes that were originally bolted in the early 1990s with hardware store bolts and anchors. The routes include a mix of both sport and traditional, with all sport routes requiring new bolts and anchors and all traditional routes in need of new anchors. All bolts will be replaced with 1/2” stainless steel glue-ins. The Morehead Tourism Commission has enlisted the help of local climbers and rebolting experts from the Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative to assist them with the effort through training and consultation on rebolting practices.
Shawangunk Mountains, NY - Mohonk Preserve
The Mohonk Preserve was awarded funding to replace eight tree and piton anchors in the Gunks with 1/2” stainless steel sleeve anchors. New bolted anchors placed below the cliff top will reduce climber impacts to the top of the cliff on routes like Gelsa in the Near Trapps. They will also replace aging piton anchors on popular routes like Son of Easy O in the Trapps.
Obed, TN - East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition
East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition (ETCC) was awarded funding to support their goal of rebolting the entire Obed in 5 years. ETCC is tackling replacement of approximately 4,000 aging bolts, which are all approaching 30 years of age, throughout the popular northeast Tennessee climbing area. ETCC has already undertaken this massive challenge, enlisting the help of volunteers and replacing 730 bolts with 1/2” stainless steel anchors this year alone.
Smith Rock, OR - High Desert Climbers Alliance
High Desert Climbers Alliance (HDCA) was awarded funding to replace aging hardware at Smith Rock State Park in central Oregon. HDCA will engage local volunteer bolt replacers to replace aging plated hardware that has been in the rock for over 40 years with long last 1/2” stainless steel hardware.
Boulder Canyon, CO - Boulder Climbing Community
Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) was awarded funding for rebolting efforts in Boulder Canyon and other Front Range climbing areas. The BCC will purchase 100 1/2” stainless steel sleeve bolts and hangers, as well as 40 anchor set-ups. Their annual rebolting events will take place at North Table Mountain, Boulder Canyon, and Clear Creek Canyon.
Spearfish Canyon, SD - Black Hills Climbers Coalition
The Black Hills Climbers Coalition (BHCC) was awarded funding to replace aging anchors at popular crags throughout Spearfish Canyon. The BHCC is tackling replacement of 300+ routes, which were equipped 25 years ago with plated and mixed metals. The BHCC will replace these aging anchors using high quality stainless steel glue-ins to meet the highest standards for fixed anchors at limestone sport climbing areas.
Ten Sleep Cayon, WY - Bighorn Climbers Coalition
The Bighorn Climbers Coalition (BCC) was awarded funding to address aging anchors in Ten Sleep Canyon. The BCC will focus on replacing wedge bolts, cold shuts, and worn lower-off anchors throughout the canyon. These will be replaced with 1/2” stainless steel bolts and high quality ring anchors and lower-off hooks specifically manufactured for climbing.
AAC is Accepting 2019 World Cup Ice Climbing Team Applications
As a Member Federation to the UIAA, the American Alpine Club is responsible for selecting the 2019 USA World Cup Ice Climbing Team.
Athletes interested in competing in any of the Ice Climbing World Cup & World Championship events must complete the google form application by 11:59pm MST on September 25, 2018.
The American Alpine Club will make their selections and athletes will be notified by October 5.