News — American Alpine Club

Shane Johnson

AAC's Strategic Plan—2025-2027

Photo by AAC member Jeremiah Watt

What follows is the AAC’s Strategic Plan leading up to the organization’s 125th anniversary. Our plan is rooted in our core belief that climbing can change lives and ignite a passion and sense of meaning within its practitioners. With the power of climbing in mind, we are dedicated to facilitating this passion and supporting climbers as they seek their most fulfilling relationship with climbing.

Vision

A community of thriving climbers.

Mission

Provide climbers with resources that advance knowledge, inspiration, and advocacy.

Values

• Adventure

• Inspiration

• Curiosity

• Inclusion

• Commitment


Photo by AAC member Kylie Fly

Pillars

Empower Members

The AAC is committed to providing the tools, resources, and support necessary for climbers to thrive and excel in their pursuits. At each opportunity that we engage with our members, we’ll create a culture of empowerment for climbers of all backgrounds and skill levels to live their dreams.

Inspire Through Storytelling

The AAC has a powerful history of inspiring and uniting climbers through storytelling. We

will deepen our investment in these stories that evoke emotions, spark curiosity, and fuel imagination, encouraging climbers to pursue dreams, push limits, and connect with the natural world.

Advocate for Our Members and the Places We Climb

The AAC is committed to conserving climbing areas, mitigating impacts on nature, and advocating for members’ rights. Through advocacy, policy, and partnerships, we will continue to activate our members to protect the places they climb.


Photo by AAC member Calder Davey

Strategic Priorities

Enhance Member Experience

We prioritize personalized interactions and know that top-tier benefits are key to enhancing member satisfaction and loyalty. We will go beyond transactions, striving to build lasting connections by addressing members’ holistic needs.

Prioritize Collaboration and Partnerships

The AAC recognizes the power of collective action in protecting climbers and their cherished climbing destinations and will focus on seeking collaborative partnerships and promoting cross-sector collaboration.

Focus on Organizational Sustainability

We will align our efforts with key strategies that drive growth, ensure stability, and foster sustainability. Our focus areas include: developing skilled and engaged staff, ensuring long-term financial stability, modernizing infrastructure, enhancing risk management and compliance, and increasing environmental sustainability.

Increase Brand Clarity and Visibility

The AAC will sharpen its brand and expand its national reach to stand out within the outdoor community. This effort aims to increase AAC’s visibility and connect better with climbers nationwide.

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American Mountaineering Center Update

Photo by AAC member Jon Glassberg

Since 1993, the AAC's office, library, and museum have been located in the American Mountaineering Center (AMC) in Golden, CO. Over the past few years, the AAC and Colorado Mountain Club have evaluated the AMC's future, including the option to sell the building that we have owned, managed, and occupied together. We are pleased to share that we sold the AMC building today, September 10, 2024. The AAC will continue to occupy the building while we work to envision a future location that will help us deliver on our mission and continue to serve our members and donors.

The AAC library and museum will close on September 20, 2024, to allow for cataloging and inventorying.

During this transitionary period, the library will cease new scanning requests, new research requests, and book sales. We remain committed to an inspiring future for the AAC library and mountaineering museum that honors the contributions of past donors and members and modernizes these critical resources for future generations.

We are proud to have partnered with the Colorado Mountain Club to steward this historic building in the heart of Golden for the past 30 years, and we firmly believe the new owner will continue to care for this important building in its next phase.

Lastly, we are grateful to the board of directors, led by Glenn Porzak, who dreamed of bringing the organization to Golden decades ago, and the members and donors who helped make that dream a reality. Your contributions, vision, and foresight brought us to this moment, which presents exciting future possibilities for the Club.

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AAC’s 2023 Impact Report

As a nonprofit dedicated to supporting the needs of climbers, we measure ourselves by our impact. We are constantly asking ourselves: are we making a difference in the lives of climbers? We’re working hard so that however you connect with climbing, you have the resources and community you need—and this is only possible through the generous support of our donors, members, and volunteers.

Dive into this report to discover the results of our work and the impact of your contributions in fiscal year 2023.


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Smith Rock Craggin’ Classic—Update

Dear AAC community,

This weekend has brought a mix of emotions as we process the significance of the threat leading into the Smith Rock Craggin’ Classic. We are grateful for the outpouring of support from the incredible community of climbers who gathered for the event, showing resilience and support for each other in the face of such adversity.

As you may know by now, on Wednesday, October 18, the Deschutes County Sheriff's Office (DCSO) informed the American Alpine Club of a significant threat that may have impacted the health and safety of climbers at Smith Rock State Park, including attendees to the Smith Rock Craggin' Classic event scheduled for October 20-22.

We partnered closely with law enforcement agencies and the Oregon Parks and Recreation Department, leveraging their guidance and expertise. Throughout this process, the safety of our staff, partners, volunteers, and participants was our number one priority. On Thursday, October 19, the AAC was informed that the individual was arrested and taken into custody by DCSO. Officers expressed confidence that he was acting alone and that there was no longer a threat and partnered with us to increase security out of an abundance of caution for the weekend events to continue.

We can confirm that the individual is a former American Alpine Club member. Still, we have no indication of a motive for the planned attack.

We are beyond grateful for the efforts of the law enforcement officers and the brave individuals who took the threat seriously and notified the Portland Police Bureau. Without either of these actions, the situation could have ended tragically. 

Additionally, we sincerely appreciate the incredible community of nearly 400 climbers who rallied together for a weekend of clinics, education, and festivities at the Smith Rock Craggin' Classic event despite the challenge that knowledge of the intended attack presented.

The American Alpine Club takes the health and safety of all attendees seriously, and we will continue to actively partner with local law enforcement agencies to evaluate security at Craggin Classic events. We'll also provide our staff and volunteers resources to support them as they process the events of the last week.

As a member of the AAC, your dedication to the Club strengthens our community, and we are genuinely grateful for your continued support.

Should there be any questions or inquiries regarding the ongoing investigation, please direct them to the Deschutes County District Attorney’s Office.

Sincerely,

 

Ben Gabriel

Executive Director, American Alpine Club

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Smith Rock Craggin' Classic—Public Statement

On October 18, the American Alpine Club was made aware of a potential threat to the health and safety of attendees to the Smith Rock Craggin Classic to be held October 20-22, 2023, at Smith Rock State Park.

We worked closely with law enforcement agencies and the Oregon Parks and Recreation Department to monitor the situation and evaluate our ability to host the event, with the safety and well-being of our staff, volunteers, partners, and participants as our top priority. The associated individual was arrested and is now in custody, and authorities are confident there is no continued threat.

We are grateful to the law enforcement agencies for their efforts and support during this incident.

Please direct any questions and inquiries regarding the ongoing investigation to the Deschutes County District Attorney’s Office.

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Tom Hornbein (1930 – 2023)

Hornbein on the 1963 Everest expedition.

On May 6, the American Alpine Club and climbing community lost a luminary, a mentor, and a dear friend. Tom Hornbein, MD, was a legend in American climbing. Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld ushered in the modern era of mountaineering and set the standard for future generations with their iconic ascent of the West Ridge of Everest in 1963. This audacious feat has perhaps yet to find an equal in the annals of Himalayan climbing.

Tom Hornbein in March of 2023. Photo by AAC member Jim Aikman.

In his youth, Hornbein pioneered standard-setting rock climbs. In 1949, he climbed Northwest Passage in the Boulder Flatirons, incorporating the first use of sophisticated direct aid in the area. In 1952, Hornbein made the first serious foray onto the Diamond of Longs Peak. He’d return decades later and climb that iconic wall at age 64. In 1953, he led Hornbein Crack on the Chasm View wall with virtually no protection. At the time it was the hardest pitch of free climbing in the high mountains. 

However, Hornbein will always be remembered for the West Ridge of Everest. In an interview for the American Alpine Club's Legacy Series, Hornbein described a shared fire to pursue the team’s objective: "Those of us on the West Ridge team needed something more than just to climb Everest—to do something that was different than what the Swiss and the Brits had done. We really wanted an adventure that we didn't feel was there for us on a route that had already been climbed a couple of times. That was the transcendent force: to be challenged by something that we didn't know we could likely pull off."

For his contributions to climbing and the American Alpine Club, Hornbein was awarded the AAC President's Gold Medal twice, once in 2013 along with the other members of the 1963 Everest team and again in 2020, as the sole recipient. The AAC President's Gold Medal has only been awarded seven times in the organization's history. He also received the AAC Honorary Member award and the Angelo Heilprin Citation award for exemplary service to the Club.

His professional achievements rivaled his feats in the mountains. Dr. Hornbein was Chairman of the Department of Anesthesiology at the University of Washington School of Medicine. He studied human physiology and performance at high altitude, making his work a link between medicine and mountaineering.

Throughout the years, Horbein was an inspiration to us all. AAC Board President Graham Zimmerman's recollections of Hornbein reveal the heart and soul that Horbein brought to climbing: "Tom Hornbein inspired us to dream big, fiercely pursue those dreams, and be exceptionally kind while on the journey. Not only did he demonstrate a dedication to climbing, but he also provided an example of how our experiences in the mountains can be applied to make the world a better place.

Tom was a friend whom I'm going to miss very much."

Hornbein’s generosity made a significant impact on the AAC during his life, and for that the Club will be forever grateful. His devotion to our craft and his passion for life have inspired generations of climbers, and his influence and example will continue to live on.


Legacy Series, Episode 5: Tom Horbein

Learn more about Tom Hornbein, MD, and his contributions to climbing through this Legacy Series video.

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AAC Announces New Executive Director Ben Gabriel

The AAC Board of Directors has named Ben Gabriel as the organization's next executive director, effective April 17. Gabriel brings significant policy and advocacy and strategic leadership experience to the Club, having served as executive director for Wild Montana since 2017. Before joining Wild Montana, he was executive director of Friends of Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks in New Mexico.

"My physical, mental, and spiritual well-being is all based on my initial connection to climbing," Gabriel said. "That's what excites me most about coming back, full circle, to the American Alpine Club—re-engaging and serving this community that has been so transformational for me and helped me set myself on my current career path."

The AAC Board of Directors selected Gabriel after an extensive search led by the Isaacson, Miller search firm and an internal board committee. The groups prioritized an equitable process to identify a passionate climber with the requisite experience to lead the AAC into its future.

AAC President Graham Zimmerman shared excitement about the organization’s position and potential moving forward, saying, “Board members Pete Ward and Jamie Logan took on the role of interim director during a critical time for the organization. Through strong crisis management, operational excellence, staff mentorship, and decisive leadership they have left the organization in far better condition than they found it.

Subsequently, our new executive director, Ben Gabriel, is well-positioned to drive this organization into the future. I am joined by the rest of the board in being very excited for this next phase of the AAC and exceptionally confident in Ben's ability to lead us into the future that we envision for this organization.”

“The American Alpine Club is in a great business position now and I am excited for its future supporting and leading the climbing community,” said Ward, who served as interim director for the last year. “We are lucky to have an amazing staff, a visionary board of directors led by Graham Zimmerman, and now, we are privileged to welcome Ben Gabriel as he leads the AAC into the next leg of its journey. Ben is a proven leader and I look forward to supporting him and the AAC for many years to come.”

Wild Montana President Tim Lynch expressed appreciation for Gabriel’s tenure, saying “We can't thank Ben enough for the leadership, innovation, and dogged energy he brought to Wild Montana during his 5 years as our executive director. In that time, he led the organization through the process of rebranding, greatly expanded our capacity and effectiveness, and steered us through some extremely challenging times. Even during those times, the organization protected hundreds of thousands of acres of wildlands, led several successful efforts to increase conservation funding at the state and national levels, and played a crucial role in helping reform the federal oil and gas leasing system. We're sad to see him go, but wish him the best in all of his future endeavors.”

Gabriel expressed optimism for the Club’s potential in the coming years and commented "I feel that there's a lot at stake now between rapidly changing climate, attacks on public lands, and decreasing access to some of our favorite places. I think the climbing community can share a lot of the lessons they've learned and educate the public more broadly. It's a unique role that the American Alpine Club will be able to play into the future."

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Renaming the Robert & Miriam Underhill Award

As Outside Magazine recently reported, the American Alpine Club (AAC) has entered into a process to rename the Robert and Miriam Underhill Award for outstanding mountaineering achievement.

The AAC is a nationwide community of climbers spanning age, gender, race, ability, and religion. A shared passion for climbing and a commitment to fostering an inclusive community and protecting the places where we climb unite us all. We firmly commit to a continual process of examining and shining a light on all parts of our history, including and especially the aspects of that history that must evolve. We are accountable to our community and to ourselves to be open, accurate, and transparent in that evolution.

As we work to rename the award, we want to understand the modern purpose of an award dedicated to "the highest level of skill in the mountaineering arts" and seek to connect it genuinely to the better parts of climbing history. Our goal is to do this in a way that ensures we're awarding meaningful contributions rather than simply being generic and performative.

The AAC will complete the renaming process and better define the award's purpose before presenting it again in early 2023. We will not limit the tools we consider in that process and recognize that no effort will be complete without internal and external perspectives. 

Our Climb United program vision states that “Adventurousness and exploration are not only where I went, but also what did I imagine and what perspectives did I consider along the way.” The renaming of this award presents an excellent opportunity for the AAC to illuminate and explore perspectives.

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The AAC Supports UIAA Decision on Russian Events and Athletes

The American Alpine Club (AAC) stands with other UIAA members in fully supporting Ukraine. Like the UIAA, the AAC fully condemns, in the strongest possible terms, any and all use of state or individual violence to settle perceived or actual disputes, as in the case of the Russian invasion of Ukraine.

The AAC joins our voice to the calls for international peace and an immediate end to the war. In the meantime, we support the UIAA's decisions to signal this support by canceling upcoming and future UIAA events in Russia and restricting access to UIAA events. While we know that not all Russian mountaineers and climbers support the war, these actions function to pressure the Russian Federation to stop their aggressive actions.

We hope to continue to see the solidarity from within the climbing community and an immediate end to the war.

Sincerely,

Kevin Duncan

Jamie Logan

Interim CEO

American Alpine Club

 

Board President

American Alpine Club

 
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UPDATE: PRACTICAL BETA ON CLIMBING IN THE COVID ERA

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Throughout the pandemic, climbers have cleared the crags and demonstrated responsible decision-making out of concern for their community. Thank you.

Across the country, restrictions on access to public lands are beginning to change, and, with heightened vigilance, climbers have started to head back to the crags. As we re-engage the activity that we love, our decisions should prioritize the well-being of all individuals and communities that we may impact.

To help foster responsible decision-making and protect vulnerable communities, we offer the following Guiding Principles as we enter the next phase of the pandemic.

GUIDING PRINCIPLES:

  • Don't become a vector for transmission; your behavior matters.

  • Default to always wearing a mask when there is a potential of being near others.

  • Know and follow federal, state, county, and local health guidelines and recommendations. 

  • Follow guidance from local land managers and climbing organizations.

  • Be respectful of rural gateway communities, and use heightened vigilance if you choose to travel to these areas.

  • Keep your objectives conservative. Climbing accidents are avoidable and expose first responders, search and rescue teams, and hospital staff to increased stress and disease risk.

  • Be kind, respectful, and patient with one another during this time. We all want to spend time outside safely; let's work together to create an environment that allows this.

SHOULD I GO CLIMBING?

If you feel confident that you can climb while keeping others and yourself safe, ask the following questions before heading to the crag:

Do I Feel Sick Or Have Reason To Believe I've Recently Been Exposed To COVID-19?

  • Do not go climbing if you feel sick!

  • You may be a carrier of COVID-19 without experiencing symptoms. Be sure to make conservative decisions if you believe you may have recently been exposed to COVID-19.

Who Should I Climb With?

  • As with any social activity, minimize the number of different partners you climb with during this time.

  • Climbing in large groups increases the impact on the land, each other’s experience, and the likelihood of spreading the virus. If you’re in a large group, consider breaking into smaller sub-groups to climb.

Where Should I Climb?

  • States and counties have adopted different standards—check federal, state, and local regulations before deciding where to climb.

  • Respect and follow local climbing organization and land management guidelines.

  • Be hypervigilant if you do decide to travel to vulnerable rural gateway communities.

What Should I Do If I Choose A Crag, And When I Arrive, It's Packed With People?

  • Have a plan B, or even plan C. If you get to the crag, and it's too crowded to maintain social distancing guidelines, head to another spot.

  • If you are at the crag, and it gets crowded, leave for another area.

What Can I Do to Protect Myself, My Partner, And Others?

  • Default to always wearing a mask when there is a potential of being near others.

  • Keep your outdoor objectives conservative.

  • Practice frequent hand sanitation before, during, and after a session.

  • Treat the rock and gear as you would surfaces in town. 

How Else Can I Help?

  • Rapid COVID-19 tests are becoming widely available. If you choose to travel, consider a COVID-19 test before and after your trip.  

  • Continue to practice Leave No Trace principles.

  • Financially support your local climbing organization.

Thank you for continuing to represent the climbing community through responsible decision-making.

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Joint Statement on Climbing Route Naming

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The American Alpine Club, Appalachian Mountain Club, Colorado Mountain Club, Mazamas, and The Mountaineers join with those speaking out and taking action against racist, sexist, and otherwise derogatory route names, and we welcome the conversation about how best to move forward as a community.

Historically in the U.S. climbing community, the opportunity and privilege of naming a route has been given to the first ascensionist. Naming a route is an earned honor, responsibility, and form of artistic expression. When done well, a route's name tells a story. It often cleverly captures the experience of establishing or climbing the route or a unique characteristic of the formation. At worst, a route name inscribes onto the rock an individual's prejudice, insecurity, and violence. These names deface the special places where we climb. Names like "N*****s Wall," "Case of the F*gs," and "Slant Eyes" signal that not all people are welcome, creating a hostile environment that we should not accept.

Recent movements across our nation, including Black Lives Matter, SafeOutside, and Me Too, have been a catalyst for many individuals and organizations to recognize the institutionalized and systemic oppression built into the foundation of our society.

Though not a new problem, we are grateful to Erynne Gilpin, Ashleigh Thompson, and Melissa Utomo, along with Brown Girls Climb, Melanin Base Camp, and Natives Outdoors, for bringing focus back to this problematic practice. As individuals and as a community, we must recognize that words matter. The climbing community as a whole is accountable for the language we use to identify and describe the places where we climb. We must own the toxicity in the practice of naming routes. It’s time for change.

As signers, our 5 organizations represent 150,000 members nationwide. We commit ourselves to building a more respectful community. That includes working collaboratively with climbers across the country to change names of existing routes, providing anti-racism and anti-harassment training for our members and volunteer leaders, and auditing our own publications and websites to determine a process for expunging offensive route names. These changes represent only a starting point, but they are a necessary first step toward making the climbing community more inclusive and our crags and mountains welcoming to us all.

In unity,

American Alpine Club

Appalachian Mountain Club

Colorado Mountain Club

Mazamas

The Mountaineers

AAC SUES THE COUNCIL ON ENVIRONMENTAL QUALITY TO KEEP THE “PUBLIC” IN PUBLIC LANDS

Photo by Dawn Kish

Photo by Dawn Kish

GOLDEN, CO—Today, the American Alpine Club joined forces with Winter Wildlands Alliance and 20 other conservation and environmental justice organizations to sue the Council on Environmental Quality (CEQ) and stop its evisceration of the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA). 

For the past 50 years, the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) has ensured that climbers and skiers have a voice in how the federal government managers our public lands. Whether considering issues like climbing regulations in forest planning, balancing recreation with cultural preservation in national monuments, or accounting for impacts to the climate from energy development on public lands—NEPA ensures that the federal government incorporates science and public opinion in the decision-making process. NEPA assures that the federal government operates with transparency and is held accountable for the decisions made on public lands. Having transparent decision making and accountability is particularly important to the climbing community as many of our cherished climbing areas are located on federal public lands across the country.

“Mountain regions are warming at roughly twice the pace of the global average, and climbers and skiers are experiencing these changes every time we go into the mountains. Now, the administration has decided that federal agencies no longer need to consider how their decisions will affect the climate. We’re suing the administration to force the government to continue accounting for climate impacts before approving development projects.” says Taylor Luneau, Policy Manager at the American Alpine Club. Luneau wrote about the changes to NEPA in detail in the AAC’s Summit Register: The Policy Zine for Climbers.

The policy changes announced by President Trump on July 15, 2020, mark a significant departure from how the government has previously interpreted NEPA. The new regulations limit public participation, restrict the scope of environmental analyses, and intend to fast-track approval for development and infrastructure projects. These policy changes raise significant concerns not only for the protection of public lands and outdoor recreation, but for the health and well-being of communities across the country who rely on clean air, water, and a healthy climate. 

“The National Environmental Policy Act gives every American a voice in how public lands are managed. If you’ve ever sent a letter to the Forest Service, Park Service, or Bureau of Land Management, weighing in on a project, you were able to do so because of NEPA,” says Hilary Eisen, Policy Director at Winter Wildlands Alliance. “These policy changes dramatically re-interpret the law to sideline the public and prioritize corporate interests over environmental protection,” Eisen added.

To learn more, join Taylor Luneau and Hilary Eisen, along with Susan Jane Brown, staff attorney at Western Environmental Law Center, for a webinar at 6 p.m. Mountain Time on August 11. 

Register online at: https://bit.ly/NEPALawsuitWebinar

To learn more about the importance of NEPA for climbers, read our latest blog post and check out the AAC’s newest publication Summit Register.

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AAC Announces Next CEO—Mitsu Iwasaki

Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) Board of Directors announced today that it has named Mitsu Iwasaki as the organization’s next Chief Executive Officer, effective August 3. Iwasaki is currently the Executive Director of the Mazamas in Portland, Oregon.

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Prior to the Mazamas, he led the rebuilding of the Northwest Outward Bound School where he was the executive director for more than five years. He has also held senior roles at Outward Bound and Big City Mountaineers. “I first joined the AAC as a member in 1997 and am honored to step in as the next leader,” said Iwasaki. “The AAC has broad and deep influence both within and outside the climbing community. The AAC is at an exciting and important juncture with an opportunity to build on the strong foundation put into place under the leadership of Phil Powers.” 

AAC Board of Directors President Kevin V. Duncan said, “We’re thrilled to welcome Mitsu as our next CEO. Mitsu brings a strong track record of guiding organizations through periods of growth and transformation. Climbing is evolving rapidly and the AAC is leaning in. As more people are introduced to climbing through gyms and outdoor adventure films, our mission is to both share and support our passion for climbing, as well as respect the places we climb. We are more attuned to the responsibility we share to protect the public lands on which we recreate and to ensure that climbers are equipped with the knowledge and skills to keep themselves safe. We are confident that Mitsu is the best person to lead us into this new future.” 

Current AAC CEO Phil Powers announced his resignation in October 2019, after fifteen years at the helm of the organization. “On behalf of the Board of Directors,” said Duncan, “I wish to thank Phil for his outstanding leadership. His contributions to the club have been invaluable, driving significant growth and diversification of membership, and setting the stage for continued expansion and relevance.”

Iwasaki was selected after an extensive national search led by the Koya Leadership Partners. “At every step of the way, we challenged ourselves to be inclusive of input from our broad stakeholder community,“ said immediate past President Deanne Buck and search committee chair. “We were looking for that unique individual who brought a depth of experience running organizations with significant growth, the ability to connect with the national politician and the first time climber, a track record of inspiring, building, and leading a team of dedicated professionals, and who has a deep and unabiding love and passion for climbing and the mountains. Mitsu brings all of those attributes and more.” 

Iwasaki will be located in Golden. He is a partner at the Outdoor Policy Outfit and serves on the boards of Big City Mountaineers, Oregon Humanities, and the Oregon State Parks Foundation. 

CONTACT:

Shane Johnson, Marketing and Membership Director

sjohnson@americanalpineclub.org

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The AAC Stands in Solidarity

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Black lives matter—throughout the country and at the crag. The American Alpine Club stands in solidarity with those protesting systemic racism on the frontlines and from home. As climbers and as humans, we believe that racism has no place in our craft or our country.

The American Alpine Club is a national community of boulderers and big wallers, backcountry skiers and gym climbers, weekend warriors and armchair mountaineers. Across distance, age and gender, race and religion, political party and profession, we are united by a shared passion for climbing and a commitment to protecting the places where we climb.

What joins us is greater than what divides us. And, in this moment, we collectively grieve the killing of George Floyd and condemn the systemic racism that jeopardizes life and opportunity for black and brown people.   

The American Alpine Club stands with the countless victims of racism—George Floyd, Ahmaud Arbery, Breonna Taylor, and Christian Cooper are only recent examples. We stand with those whose lives were callously stolen and with those who have survived the odds. We stand with those who speak up for justice: in everyday life, at protests, in the halls of government, at the crag, and in the voting booth.

United we climb and united we stand.

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THE NEXT PITCH: PRACTICAL BETA ON CLIMBING IN THE COVID ERA

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Climbers across the country have set personal needs aside, cleared the crag out of concern for their community, and taken precautions to help "flatten the curve."

Thank you.

With the easing of shelter-in-place policies across the country, restrictions on access to crags are beginning to change. Deciding whether it’s appropriate to head back out to your local crag will be an important and localized decision. To help, we want to offer the following Guiding Principles on when and how to re-rack for the next pitch.

Guiding Principles:

  • Be respectful of rural gateway communities, and avoid traveling to these areas.

  • Follow federal, state, county, and city health emergency guidelines and recommendations.

  • Recreate close to home, don't travel to climb.

  • Take cues from your local land managers and climbing organizations.

  • Keep your outdoor objectives conservative. Climbing accidents will place further stress on first responders, search and rescue teams, and hospital staff.

  • Be kind, respectful, and patient with one another during this time. We all want to feel safe spending time outside; let's work together to create an environment that allows this.

Should I go climbing?

If you feel confident that you can safely climb in your area, keep the following questions in mind before heading to the crag.

Do I feel sick or have reason to believe I've recently been exposed to COVID-19?

  • Do not go climbing if you are feeling sick!

  • You may be a carrier of COVID-19 without experiencing symptoms—be sure to make decisions based on the most vulnerable members of our community.

Who should I climb with?

  • Climb with people from your own home. If you can't do this, consider climbing with just one partner.

Where should I climb?

  • Individual counties may adopt more protective standards than others—check local regulations before deciding where to travel.

  • Comply with all local climbing organization and land management guidelines.

  • Restrict your travel and climb close to home. Avoid going to vulnerable rural or gateway communities.

What should I do if I choose a crag close to home, and when I arrive, it's packed with people?

  • Have a plan B, or even plan C. If you get to the crag, and it's too crowded to maintain social distancing guidelines, head to another spot.

  • Consider the conditions of your approach—is it vulnerable to erosion or damage if you have to leave the trail to maintain six feet of distance?

What can I do when I get to the crag to protect myself, my partner, and others?

  • Keep your outdoor objectives conservative.

  • Practice frequent hand sanitation before, during, and after a session.

  • Treat the rock and gear as you would surfaces in town. 

  • Wear a mask when near others.

  • Avoid putting climbing gear in your mouth—your rope as you pull slack to clip, for example.

How else can I help?

  • Not everyone will be able to return to climbing at the same time. If you are lucky enough to have the opportunity to safely climb in your area, be considerate of those who can't.

  • Continue to practice Leave No Trace principles.

  • If you’re financially able to, support your local climbing organization.

Thank you for continuing to lead with responsible decision-making in your local climbing community.

A MESSAGE FROM AAC CEO PHIL POWERS

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To the American Alpine Club Community,

Our world has been radically impacted by COVID-19. And, this week, it hit home for us in Golden. 

Yesterday, we placed nearly a quarter of our valued employees on furlough. The senior leadership team and I were brought to this decision after thorough and thoughtful forecasting and budget cuts.

With our operations and revenues limited for an unknown period, we have chosen a path which will see the AAC through the next months to a position of continued strength. Included in this plan is the furlough of several of our full-time team members. These employees will continue to receive full medical benefits for the duration of the furlough. In addition to these steps, my senior leadership team and I have taken temporary salary reductions, and we have suspended matching contributions to 403(b) retirement plans for all staff.  

I do not take these decisions lightly. Caring for our team is paramount. Climbing is a driving force in my life; I know it is for many of you. The AAC’s mission and goals are deeply fulfilling, but it is the people I work with—including those we will miss over these next weeks— who make our work so satisfying. 

Over the last six weeks, we've navigated a fraught and changing landscape with the priority of furthering our mission, protecting our people, and supporting our community. In early March, we closed our Golden offices and asked our team to work safely from home. With the disease spreading across the nation, we pivoted our Annual Benefit Dinner to a virtual event, and our community united together for an evening of reflection and celebration. In the last month, we've continued to foster community within climbing through our new Give a Belay, Get a Belay initiative and Clubhouse Live series. 

During this period of change, AAC staff members have also called hundreds of members, volunteers, and donors to check in and let you know that we care. Not surprisingly, you have responded in kind, rallying in support of each other and our Club, reminding us that this community is our greatest strength.

Thank you.

The hard choices we have made this week will allow the AAC to weather a difficult time while maintaining our core operations, and our ability to deliver on our promise to all members.

At its core, the American Alpine Club is strong. The mission and values that bind our 25,000 members across generations and backgrounds—and that tie us to the mountains—are as compelling and urgent as ever. The challenges we face are significant. Our efforts—and success—never more important.

I want to share a deep thank you from staff, the board, and dedicated volunteers for the support that you continue to offer to us and to each other. I know you’ll agree that in climbing and the Club we share something sustaining. In difficult times, I know I am thankful for what I’ve learned in the mountains.

Be prudent, be thoughtful and keep yourselves on a path to feeling good in the vertical world when that time comes.

I am honored to share this Club with you.

Sincerely yours,

Phil Powers

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ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER CORONAVIRUS UPDATE

We will host the upcoming Annual Benefit Dinner virtually on Saturday, March 14 at 5 p.m. MDT, the in-person gathering is cancelled.

In an effort to lead in good decision-making as citizens of a country that is facing a potential crisis, we believe it is important to avoid contributing to that risk. We feel strongly that this is the responsible decision to protect the folks in our community who may be most vulnerable to the COVID-19 virus.

We are disappointed we won’t be seeing you all in person, but we still need your virtual presence and support this week!

Please stay tuned this week for a link to the live-stream feed, which will include a message from our keynote speaker Kris Tompkins, acceptance speeches from our 2020 awardees, and a special address from CEO Phil Powers.

The Annual Dinner is our largest fundraiser of the year. As we face increasing threats to our wild places and work to support a growing climbing population and volunteer network, we depend on this now-virtual event to help raise over $350,000 to fund our critical programs. 

We hope you will choose to stand with the AAC community from wherever you are to help ensure we reach our crucial goal. Thank you!

Please reach out to our team with any questions.

Heidi McDowell, Event Director [hmcdowell@americanalpineclub.org]

Scott Wilton, Event Coordinator [swilton@americanalpineclub.org]