Statement on Bolting Petroglyphs Near Moab, Utah

We unequivocally condemn the recent actions at Sunshine Wall, near Moab, Utah that compromised the integrity of petroglyphs, sacred Indigenous cultural artifacts.

It is essential that climbers understand the significance of petroglyphs, not only as a window into the past but as an ongoing and vital part of Indigenous culture and identity to this day, and are committed to protecting these sacred sites. The cultural and spiritual value of these places cannot be measured, and we firmly support efforts to protect them. We are currently reaching out to our friends and partners in the local and national tribal, climbing, and land management communities to discuss how to best proceed with the current situation and prevent such instances from occurring again.

Signed,

American Alpine Club
Access Fund
Friends of Indian Creek
Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Western Colorado Climbers’ Coalition

The Prescription - February 2021

Highline anchor bolts atop the northwest corner of Castleton Tower, Utah.

The Prescription - February 2021

STRANDED – STUCK RAPPEL ROPES

CASTLETON TOWER, UTAH

Just after sunset on December 4, two male climbers (ages 32 and 36) called 911 to report they were stranded halfway down 400-foot Castleton Tower because their rappel ropes had become stuck. Starting near sunrise, the pair had climbed the classic Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9) on the tower’s south side. They topped out later than expected, with about an hour and a half of daylight left.

Armed with guidebook photos and online beta, they planned to descend via the standard North Face rappels. The two saw a beefy new anchor on top of the northwest corner of the tower and decided this must be the first rappel anchor. Tying two 70-meter ropes together, the first rappeller descended about 200 feet and spotted a bolted anchor 25 feet to his right, with no other suitable anchor before the ends of the ropes. No longer in voice contact with his partner, he ascended a short distance and moved right to reach the bolted anchor. It appeared that one more double-rope rappel would get them to the ground. Once both climbers reached the mid-face anchor, they attempted to pull the ropes. Despite applying full body weight to the pull line, they could not get the ropes to budge.

Contemplating ascending the stuck rope, the climbers realized the other strand had swung out of reach across a blank face. The climbers agreed that recovering the other strand was not safe or practical, nor was climbing the unknown chimney above them in the dark. The climbers were aware the temperature was expected to drop to 15°F overnight, so they made the call for a rescue. They were prepared with a headlamp, warm jackets, hand warmers, and an emergency bivy sack.

A team of three rescuers from Grand County Search and Rescue was transported to the summit via helicopter. One rescuer rappelled to the subjects around 9 p.m. and assisted them in rappelling to the base of the tower. 

ANALYSIS

The rescuers discovered the climbers had mistakenly rappelled from an anchor used to rig a 500-meter highline (slackline) over to the neighboring Rectory formation. Instead of rappelling the North Face, as planned, the climbers had ended up on the less-traveled West Face Route (5.11). Because the highline anchors were not intended for rappelling, friction made it impossible for the climbers to pull their ropes.

Upon reflection, the climbing party identified a number of decisions that could have prevented this misadventure. Had they abandoned the climb and rappelled the Kor-Ingalls Route earlier, they probably would have been down before sunset. Even after finishing the route, heading back down the Kor-Ingalls would have had the advantage of familiarity with the anchor stations rather than rappelling into unknown territory. Lastly, while the highline anchor is quite visible atop the tower, its configuration, set back from the cliff edge with very short chain links, indicates it is not appropriate for a rappel. The climbers may have felt rushed with the setting sun and dropping temperatures, but if they had looked more thoroughly, they likely would have found the North Face rappel station, about 15 feet away . This anchor’s bolts have three or four feet of chain that extend over the edge and attach to large rappel rings, making for an easy pull. (Sources: The climbers, Grand County Search and Rescue, and the Editors.) 

The Hazards of Highline Anchors

As highlines, BASE jumps, and space nets grow in popularity, the number of nonclimbing bolted anchors is on the rise at certain climbing areas, and rescues like this are becoming more prevalent. In fact, this is the second stranding in five years resulting from an attempted rappel using the same highline anchor on Castleton Tower. Two very similar incidents were reported in ANAC 2019: one at Smith Rock, Oregon, and one in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado.

The highline from Misery Ridge to Monkey Face at Smith Rock. Climbers were stranded in 2018 when they attempted to rappel from the anchors on the left and could not pull their ropes. Photo courtesy of Smithrock.com.

To avoid mistakenly using an anchor that’s not intended for rappelling, study published descriptions of anchor locations carefully. If an anchor does not appear to be set up properly for rappelling—especially when it’s on a very popular formation like Castleton Tower—look around and consider the options before committing to the rappel. 

After word got out about these stranded climbers on Castleton Tower, a local guide removed the chain links from the highline anchor to discourage future incidents. (The links can easily be reinstalled to rig the highline to the Rectory.) Plans are in the works to attach plaques identifying the bolts as a highline anchor.

THE SHARP END: A SKIER’S SCARY SLIDE ON MT. HOOD

Last June, a 25-year-old skier had just begun his descent from Mt. Hood’s summit when he missed a turn and started sliding. Waiting at the bottom was a fumarole: an opening in the volcano’s icy surface that emits steam and noxious gases. In episode 61 of the Sharp End, this skier tells host Ashley Saupe about his accident and ensuing rescue. The Sharp End podcast is sponsored by the American Alpine Club.

Climbers and Fumaroles

Fumarole incidents on Oregon’s Mt. Hood are not uncommon. These dangerous volcanic vents form in the run-out zone below several of Hood’s most popular summit routes. In December 2020, another skier fell through a thin bridge over a fumarole on Mt. Hood. Like the skier in this month’s Sharp End, she was traveling alone, and she was fortunate that bystanders quickly came to her aid. Although traditional crevasse hazard is seldom an issue on Hood’s normal routes, solo climbers and skiers should be acutely aware of fumarole dangers, how to identify them, and their likely locations. For more on Mt. Hood’s common accident types, see “Danger Zones” in ANAC 2018.

OMG! THIS BOLT IS LOOSE!

According to the New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) in West Virginia, 75 percent of the “bad bolt” reports it receives are simple cases of loose nuts that could be tightened easily. This fun, one-minute video from the NRAC offers a quick breakdown of what to do when you encounter a loose bolt—which can be tightened and which should be reported to your local climbing organization or BadBolts.com.

MEET THE VOLUNTEERS

Stacia Glenn, Regional Editor for Washington

Years volunteering with Accidents: 5

Stacia Glenn near Washington Pass. Photo by Jon Abbott

Real job: Breaking-news reporter at The News Tribune in Tacoma

Home climbing areas: North Cascades, Exit 38, Vantage/Frenchman Coulee

Favorite type of climbing?

I love single-pitch sport—there's just something about the mental and physical challenge of finding my way up the rock, and that's where I push my ability the furthest. But the overall experience of alpine climbing—the isolation, the mountain views, the promise of adventure—is hard to beat.

How did you first become interested in Accidents?

When I was first learning how to climb, I had no real sense of what could go wrong. As a way to educate and caution me, a friend pointed me to the Accidents publication, and it became a wonderful learning tool. Reading about climbing mishaps and poring over the analysis of why these things happened drove home the seriousness of the sport and instilled a deep appreciation for safety. Editing Accidents and diving into the details of each incident constantly reminds me of these things and has deepened my understanding of techniques.

Personal scariest incident?

I was warming up on a sport route in the Tieton River area, west of Yakima, on a sweltering summer day, and the climb had an extremely high first bolt. As I went to move my left hand, a rock fell from the cliff above and startled me. I lost my grip and fell 22 feet, landing upright and shattering the tibia and fibula in my left leg. I was only falling for seconds, but it felt like the world slowed down as my mind frantically tried to process what was happening and how I could protect myself. So terrifying! 

Share Your Story: The deadline for the 2021 edition of Accidents in North American Climbing is not far off. If you were involved in a climbing accident or rescue in 2020, consider sharing the lessons with other climbers. Let’s work together to reduce the number of accidents. Reach us at accidents@americanalpineclub.org.

The monthly Accidents Bulletin is supported by adidas Outdoor and the members of the American Alpine Club.

The Prescription - December 2020

Medical helicopter departing from the ridge below Sister Superior, above Castle Valley, Utah. Behind are the Priest, the Rectory, and Castleton Tower. Photo courtesy of Grand County Sheriff’s Search and Rescue

The Prescription - December 2020

GROUND FALL ON SISTER SUPERIOR

An accident last November on the first pitch of Jah Man (5 pitches, 5.10+), a desert tower route near Moab, Utah, was documented in the new Accidents in North American Climbing. One day later, a second helicopter rescue occurred, after a fall on the same pitch. These climbers’ online-only report is reproduced here.

On November 15, 2019, Paige (female, 20) and I (male, 24) set out to climb the ultra-classic Jah Man on Sister Superior. We made it to the base of the tower about 11 a.m. and found another party making their way to the top of the first pitch. We figured we’d eat a small lunch to allow for ample space between us.

We agreed that Paige would lead first and combine the first two guidebook pitches, concluding with a long, moderate squeeze chimney. Paige started up the opening moves, making it about 15 feet off the ground before stopping on a little ledge, preparing to make a rightward traverse to the base of the chimney. She placed a number 0.75 Camalot horizontally in some questionable rock, intending to back-clean it after making the next moves, in order to minimize rope drag. This was the only piece of gear between her and the ground.

Paige moved to the right, then returned to the ledge to re-evaluate. After repeating this a couple of times, I suggested she downclimb and have me take this pitch, as I had climbed the route a few years prior. She wanted to give it one more try before backing off. Having weighted the piece, she felt confident enough to go for it. She made some moves and then fell and swung back to the left. The cam ripped out of the wall, sending her about 20 feet to the ground.

The Sister Superior formation showing the approximate area that collapsed in January 2020. The Jah Man route began near the left edge of the yellow box. Photo courtesy of Greg Child

She was unconscious and not breathing at first. After what seemed to be forever but in reality was probably only 20 seconds, she started taking short breaths. A few minutes later, she regained consciousness. Another party at the base had cell phone service and called for a rescue. Paige was concussed and complaining of pain in her neck but was moving her hands and feet.

After an hour, a helicopter arrived, dropping off a couple EMTs. (They informed us that they had worked on an accident at the very same spot the day before—see report here.) They evaluated Paige, and she ended up feeling well enough to walk about 60 yards to the helicopter. She was flown to the hospital in Moab, where she was diagnosed with three fractures in her upper back and lower neck.

Analysis

We were planning to link the first two pitches and were more conscious of rope drag than fully protecting the first part of the pitch. We have both spent plenty of time cragging in the desert (Indian Creek, Zion, etc.), but tower climbing is different, often with more loose rock. The traverse to the squeeze chimney was known to have subpar rock and tricky protection. We should have focused more on protecting the climb properly than linking pitches. (Source: Greyson Gyllenskog.)

And as if two accidents in two days wasn’t enough….

In early January 2020, less than two months after these incidents, the start of this famous climb and the huge flake forming the squeeze chimney collapsed. The original route is no longer climbable.

THE SHARP END: A 200-FOOT TUMBLE DOWN THE NORTH CHIMNEY OF LONGS PEAK

On the morning of September 5, Annie Weinmann and her climbing partner started up the North Chimney, a broad 500-foot slot that leads climbers to the Diamond, Colorado's premier alpine wall. Annie had done the North Chimney before and was comfortable climbing the easy terrain unroped and in approach shoes. But when she got slightly off-route, a foot slip led to a terrible tumble.

In Episode 39 of The Sharp End podcast, Annie tells Ashley Saupe what caused her to slip and how she survived her 200-foot fall, plus some fascinating insights into the circumstances that brought her to this point. Listen here!

AIRBAG SAFETY CHECK

Mammut is asking owners of the Generation 3.0 avalanche airbag with Removable Airbag System (RAS) to inspect the inflation cartridge and ensure it can be screwed into place completely. This notice affects only airbags purchased during the 20/21 season. For complete information and instructions, click here.

MEET THE VOLUNTEERS

Gary O’Brien, Regional Editor for Idaho

Years volunteering with ANAC: 2

Home crags: Logan and Blacksmith Fork canyons in northern Utah; City of Rocks and Castle Rocks in Idaho.

Favorite type of climbing

I am most drawn to the alpine environment and love to climb alpine rock and snow. We also spend plenty of time trad and sport climbing. I enjoy belaying my climbing-addicted 14-year-old, who is on the verge of sending his first 5.13.

How did you first become interested in Accidents?

I have been reading them for years—as a kid, I used to pore over my father’s stash of ANAC from the 1940s, 50s, and 60s. For a decade or so, I worked as a professional ski patroller, and that experience brought into sharp relief the fine line between safe practice and serious accidents. For me, the margin between accident and prevention has always seemed a compelling part of this amazing sport.

Why do you think accident reporting is important?

Statistics don’t lie—trends are incredibly revealing of human behavior, and are underpinned by real lives lost, real lives affected. I think about this with every accident I analyze. The main thing I think we can learn and reinforce is how common and preventable so many of them are, if we take a moment to review precautions and strategy of what we’re about to do.

Personal scariest “close call”?

I’m happy to report that I’ve had very few close calls over the years, but one stands out. Years ago, I was climbing Mont Blanc by the standard route. The route crosses the Couloir du Goûter, a steep, wide gully notorious for rockfall. After reaching easier terrain on the other side, my partner and I unroped. Without warning, a barrage of huge boulders swept down and struck my partner, who disappeared over the edge and fell some 500 meters down the couloir to the Glacier de Bionnassay.

The rescue is a long story, but, in short, I was able to locate and stabilize him. A nearby guided party notified the PGHM (High Mountain Military Police). We carried my partner down the glacier in a litter, which took most of the night. He was hospitalized for weeks with multiple injuries, but eventually enjoyed a complete recovery.

Gary O’Brien’s scary experience in the Couloir du Goûter is far from an isolated incident. This broad gully, which must be crossed to reach the high hut on Mont Blanc’s most popular summit route, is one of the most dangerous passages in the Alps, with numerous injuries and a few fatalities every season. (The alternative “normal route” up Mont Blanc, starting at the Refuge des Cosmiques, also has serious objective hazards.) The Petzl Foundation sponsored research on the causes and timing of rockfall in the Couloir du Goûter during the summers of 2018 and 2019, and their informative study, published this past summer, can be downloaded here.

The research team used seismic sensors to determine the timing of rockfall events and correlate them with snow levels, temperature, and rainfall. As might be expected, rockfall was most frequent after precipitation and during the afternoons and evenings. Perhaps more surprising: Snow in the couloir did not reduce the incidence of rockfall early in the season, as melting snow appeared to destabilize the slopes. Later-season rockfall events, though less frequent, often were bigger and longer lasting.

Petzl has produced a short video that vividly highlights the dangers of the Couloir du Goûter and the research work there. Warning: This video contains very disturbing images and audio of rockfall and other incidents.  

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Share Your Story: If you’ve been involved in a climbing accident or rescue, consider sharing the lessons with other climbers. Let’s work together to reduce the number of accidents. Contact us at accidents@americanalpineclub.org.

The monthly Accidents Bulletin is supported by adidas Outdoor and the members of the American Alpine Club.